Webers leaking

[Mikez73]

Webers like a low fuel pressure - like 3.5 or less. I installed a FPR and set it 3lbs and my leaking through the air horns on installation stopped. Ran my 40dcoe's like that for nearly 15 years. Added a return line when I got to Houston which really made no difference.

I checked the box of old parts the PO sent along with the car. He had installed a new pump just before I got the car. I assumed it was a Carter low pressure pump. There is a Carquest E8012S fuel pump box containing the old pump so I'm assuming that the Carquest pump is what he had installed. The specs on that pump are 5-9 psi @ 75-100 LPH. In light of that info I think I'll go ahead and install an FPR and set the pressure at 3psi.

I'm going to use a Holley 12-804 1-4psi FPR and add an inline gauge. Sound okay?

[oldhemi]

Sounds like a plan. If you want to go cheap and fast, you could use a cheapy from a local parts store. However, it would be cool to have one with a pressure gauge provision. But, I see a lot of posts where guys are not happy with the gauge. Mine looks like very much like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-2517-Chrome-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B000CQ46H0

You mentioned gaskets earlier. You could easily remove the 5 screws on the top of your carbs and very gingerly remove the top taking care that the gasket does not tear to take a look at the floats. There is a large gasket that covers the whole carb body between the cover and the body. To replace this gasket, you must remove the floats. To remove the floats, you have to remove the pin. This pin removal is a bitch. I broke one of the "towers" cast in the top cover. Turns out that this problem is not uncommon. I have not replaced the top yet because the other tower grips the pin very tightly and I can get by for now.

I would suggest that if your carbs are not leaking around the tops, to reconsider replacing gaskets. This gasket not only seals to the outside of the carb, but also seals some innard chambers. If your carbs are leaking around this gasket, then you might have a float adjustment issue or a leaking float problem.

Edited March 22, 2010 by oldhemi

[Mikez73]

Sounds like a plan. If you want to go cheap and fast, you could use a cheapy from a local parts store. However, it would be cool to have one with a pressure gauge provision. But, I see a lot of posts where guys are not happy with the gauge. Mine looks like very much like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-2517-Chrome-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B000CQ46H0

You mentioned gaskets earlier. You could easily remove the 5 screws on the top of your carbs and very gingerly remove the top taking care that the gasket does not tear to take a look at the floats. There is a large gasket that covers the whole carb body between the cover and the body. To replace this gasket, you must remove the floats. To remove the floats, you have to remove the pin. This pin removal is a bitch. I broke one of the "towers" cast in the top cover. Turns out that this problem is not uncommon. I have not replaced the top yet because the other tower grips the pin very tightly and I can get by for now.

I would suggest that if your carbs are not leaking around the tops, to reconsider replacing gaskets. This gasket not only seals to the outside of the carb, but also seals some innard chambers. If your carbs are leaking around this gasket, then you might have a float adjustment issue or a leaking float problem.

I went ahead and ordered the Holley from Summit. It was only 5 or 6 bux more than the Spectre. Should be here tomorrow. I'm not sure where I'll mount it. I'd like to redo the line to run in back of the motor but that would mean rearranging the fuel inlets on the carbs.

I got the new spacers and o-rings on. I'm hoping I got the thackeray washers right. It's damned near impossible to see the bottom mounts or get a feeler gauge in there.

There is definitely gas coming out of one of the horns on the last two carbs.

That sounds like info a Weber expert could hear and say "yeah I know what the problem is"

I found a shop in the UK that has good rebuild kits w/ gaskets , O rings, filters, needle valves and seals for $30 per carb. It's isn't in the budget right now though.

[240Z Man]

Have you looked in your message inbox yet ? as i have sent you a message concerning your car a couple days ago.

[Mikez73]

Have you looked in your message inbox yet ? as i have sent you a message concerning your car a couple days ago.

I don't have any new messages. If you are in the UK I think we'd have a hard time working out a deal. Thanks though.

[Mikez73]

I got the Holley FPR in today. Geez that thing looks so cheap compared to the Aeromotive FPR I had on my shiro. But then it cost much less less than the Aeromotive.

There really isn't a good place to install it.

[240Z Man]

I have bought other cars out of america before and haven't had problems before.

[Mikez73]

I installed that Holley 12-804 FPR today. Seems like junk. It has no effect on fuel pressure at all.

[ChrisZ]

Mike, the mechanical fuel pump will do the job, so leave that fuse out for now.

I think it's a good decision to rebuild those carbys, ordering from Matt / Eurocarbs, will make you sure to get genuene Dellorto / Weber parts, for Weber parts there is also fastroadcars.

When you have those carbs on fresh and rebuild, do like this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=325940&postcount=35

Look in your inbox, ive send you a PM and no, i'm not trying to buy your car

Chris

[Mikez73]

There is no mechanical fuel pump on my car Chris. Matt is cool. Great prices too on ebay. I bought some spacers and thackeray washers from him awhile back. I would have bought the cosworth washers but I didn't know about them at the time.

That's a good post. I've been watching that thread. I'll check the PM. I wouldn't mind that much if somebody did buy my car. I'd kinda like to get back to efi and turbochargers.

[Mikez73]

One thing I didn't mention in that other thread is that I hated to mess with the carbs because aside from the leaking they seem to be adjusted very well. Once the motor warmed up it ran great. No hesitation, stumbles or flat spots and the idle was good.

[ChrisZ]

Well if your jetting is good, i don't see it as a big problem, the hardest parts is to get that jetting correct, other than that it is just balancing and idle mixture, but you need to get your timing fixed first.

Chris