Webers leaking

[Mikez73]

One of you guys may be able to help me out with the way the fuel line is routed. Where the fuel supply and return lines end on the passenger side, there is a hose connected to a hard line that runs around the front of the radiator core support to the drivers side where another hose is run to a fuel filter and on to the carbs.

Is this the way Nissan ran the fuel lines or did the guy who install the Webers run this line? Seems kind of risky in a front end collision.

[d240zx2]

I don't think that's the way Nissan did it....

[Mikez73]

I trust your word but now I'm sure. It's a copper line

BTW I have a Weber manual coming but I wonder if anybody who has used the eurocarbs comprehensive kit can identify some of the smaller parts in this pic. I'm thinking now that the economy kit might have been a better choice. There are two mixture screws that I probably can't use and I had to buy the filter to carb gaskets separately. And I still need base gaskets.

[ChrisZ]

Mike, is it all those parts you have framed in ?

[zKars]

That line around the front of the rad is someone's great idea to keep the gas line cool to prevent vapor lock I'm betting. Definitely not stock. The two hard lines down by the alt on the frame rail are where they end. Put a fuel filter on the supply (5/16 line, smaller is return) and go straight to the carbs by the shortest route.

My preference is on using just a mechanical pump. Quiet, plenty of volume to feed my 3.1 stroker and 44 mikuni's, trivial and cheap to replace. Went through several electrics that burned out (in my opinion) due to lack of cooling from no return. Never could get proper return regulation due to insufficient return line size.

Now if we could only get these things to start more easily....

[Mikez73]

Mike, is it all those parts you have framed in ?

Yeah basically those parts Chris. The bigger parts should be pretty easy to figure out once I get into the carbs, and I don't want to open up anything I don't need to mess with, so I can avoid doing any damage. Just if anybody has replaced gaskets recently and recognizes them...I don't expect anybody to go through the diagram and try to match parts with part numbers. I was trying to avoid doing that myself and I definitely wouldn't ask anybody else to do it.

That line around the front of the rad is someone's great idea to keep the gas line cool to prevent vapor lock I'm betting. Definitely not stock. The two hard lines down by the alt on the frame rail are where they end. Put a fuel filter on the supply (5/16 line, smaller is return) and go straight to the carbs by the shortest route.

My preference is on using just a mechanical pump. Quiet, plenty of volume to feed my 3.1 stroker and 44 mikuni's, trivial and cheap to replace. Went through several electrics that burned out (in my opinion) due to lack of cooling from no return. Never could get proper return regulation due to insufficient return line size.

Now if we could only get these things to start more easily....

I was thinking about a mechanical pump. If it works for your 3.1 it should be more than enough for my motor. I haven't been able to get the Holley FPR to have any effect on psi. Even turned all the way, the gauge hits 7-8psi and stays there. It might be good to have an electric pump for cold starts and then have the mechanical pump take over after the motor is running but that could get really complicated.

[ChrisZ]

Okay, this is just guesses.

Spring, is for the accelerator pump below the carb

Two biggest round gaskets must be for fuel inlet banjo.

Shiny alu washer must be for needle valve.

The rest i really can't see that well on a 10 inch laptop.

Why won't your idle mixture screws work, do they have another thread size ?

Chris

[Mikez73]

That line around the front of the rad is someone's great idea to keep the gas line cool to prevent vapor lock I'm betting. Definitely not stock. The two hard lines down by the alt on the frame rail are where they end. Put a fuel filter on the supply (5/16 line, smaller is return) and go straight to the carbs by the shortest route.

My preference is on using just a mechanical pump. Quiet, plenty of volume to feed my 3.1 stroker and 44 mikuni's, trivial and cheap to replace. Went through several electrics that burned out (in my opinion) due to lack of cooling from no return. Never could get proper return regulation due to insufficient return line size.

Now if we could only get these things to start more easily....

I was thinking of trying a mechanical fuel pump like you said. I'd think the filter would be best moved to the passenger side and leave the gauge where it is. Like so:

[d240zx2]

I changed my fuel delivery system just last week. It now looks like this:

[Mikez73]

I changed my fuel delivery system just last week. It now looks like this:

Showoff :laugh: That looks super sharp. The distribution block is a great idea. I'd guess about $450-$500 invested in that setup?

[d240zx2]

Around that. That shiny hose is spendy.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Just got the 40DCOE's up and running better this week. BIG Thanks to YetterBen in WI. He rocks.

I used the stock dual fual rail outlets, #1 feeding the front 2 and #2 feeding the rear. Mr. Gasket 7psiI fuel pump at the rear, regulated by a Spectre Fuel Regulator at 4psi. and backed by a stock fuel pump.

Spectre S.S. hose braiding kit and Fuel pressure guage (cute little thang ain't it?)

Got serious idle and running issues though. Studdering like and idle jet (1 or 2 of 6) is clogged or barely pissing in the hole. From idle to 4Krpm and nuetral pedal (not accelerating or decelerating) has a jolting effect, like I'm tapping the gas pedal every other second.

140 mains

200 Air correctors

4.5 Aux Vent, 2 new ones for obvious reasons.

28 Chokes

idle screws at about 1/2 to 3/4 turns out from closed

throttle screws at about 1/2 turn out.

Any thoughts? Please!!

Thanks in advance,

Dave.

Edited May 18, 2010 by Zs-ondabrain