Looking To Buy 240Z...What To Look For.

[BrianL1987]

I purchased my most recent 240 on E Bay this last November that claimed "No Rust". I am learning the hard way that auto body repair is much more expensive to re-do then mechanical work. Overall it was pretty good but, media blast revealed some body work (& rust) I didnt spot.

[Bates]

I am going to have 2 extra sets of eyes checking this car out. We plan on getting under it, in it, and everywhere in between (that sounds... eh I don't care how it sounds). Everyone so far has given me great input that I will put to use come Saturday.

[BTF/PTM]

Is that "5 speed" emblem from an old CVCC Honda?

Make sure the VIN plates on the car all match. The engine won't match since it's a 2.8, but there are VIN plates on the right front strut tower, left side of firewall near the brake booster, driver dash area and above the driver door striker.

I'll repeat what's been said about the quality of advice from this forum. They helped me find a good solid starting platform for my own project 240z. They also helped me avoid a couple cars that would have been rust and crash repair nightmares. Take tons of pictures and post the photobucket link here, the group has a ton of experience and will tell you honestly if a car looks worth its price or worth anything at all.

[Bates]

Thanks for the info. No, that 5 speed emblem is from a 280Z actually. I was curious myself so I looked it up. It checks out

[Zealous]

Also it is only a real Z car if the clock doesn't work

[Bates]

Also it is only a real Z car if the clock doesn't work

Haha is that a common problem?

[Zealous]

Yeah, search for clock. There are many ways to fix it but it is pretty standard the clock is only right twice a day so don't worry if that is the case. Definitely check everything else as suggested above.

[BTF/PTM]

Haha is that a common problem?

It's character, not a problem

[Walter Moore]

Well the hatch grill vents says that its 1970 model. or were late 1970's registered as 1971 models?

Typically in the U.S. any car sold after October is the next year's model. I hear that in that era it ended up being whatever the dealer put on the paperwork.

But the "series 1" cars were made well into calendar 1971 anyway.

Oh, and my clock works, not very well, but it only loses about 1 hour per week. All electro-mechanical clocks from that era were like that, at least the DC powered ones.

The pictures look great, but beware of the typical rust places, and remember that the floor of cars rust out from the inside, not the outside.

Remember to check things like all of the U-joints, brakes, exhaust, etc. (Those headers look old to me. Uncoated headers usually only last 3 or 4 years in the wetter parts of the country.)

Good luck!

[Bates]

Thanks for the info Walter. Picture of the interior of the car with the seats and everything out:

[Arne]

Also it is only a real Z car if the clock doesn't work

Haha is that a common problem?

It's character, not a problem

Hmm. My clock not only works, but it's actually quite accurate. Within a couple minutes per month.

[Bonzi Lon]

I'm with Arne, my clock has always worked just fine, a little fast, but no complaints. This was the car that got me through college as a watchmaker / clockmaker, so I think it knows the downside to not working. I do not work on electro-mechanical movements, just the mechanical.

I also made the mistake of putting a sunroof in my 73, but I blame that on being in 1980. (need I say more?) If and when it goes through another re-do I will have a skin put back on.

Bonzi Lon