crazyoctopus Posted March 17, 2010 Share #1 Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) So for the past couple of weeks I have been working on a wiring diagram whenever I have been bored or drunk. So here is the nearly final diagram that I will be putting in my car. larger version http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4439513011_17611f45c7_o.jpg the point was to start new when i install the new dash, get rid of everything possible and use switches, replace glass tubes with and bladed fuses/breakers; since i have yet to find a diagram that does that i decided to make one and share. a couple notes on the components. -designed to work for a 240z, but really anything is possible with this -all gauges are to be assumed autometer unless i find a better/cheaper option, or i decide to use a motorcycle dash and figure things out that way. fuel gauge has 350 and 360ohm resistors ran in parallel. -wiper motor is the honda wiper upgrade, based off of the diagrams that were posted on this forum. switch is low/off/high -gm hei 280z dizzy conversion -euro/jdm rear light blinker mod; via the write up found on this forum -turn signal and indicator lamps (front and rear) are re-wired to work like the kit that was sold here and the one at MSA - all switches are ground switches, unless not really possible. everything that was operated by or from a Datsun stock component has been removed and replaced with a switch or button. -e-Fan is a Pontiac V6 Fiero fan, and the manual switch can be replaced with a temp switch. -alternator is the CS144/280zx internally regulated alt upgrade, write up found on this hybridz === this essentially my first attempt at wiring a car. Any input would be greatly appreciate, and any ideas would be awesome as well. The only thing that I have yet to draw in is the stereo, if you could call it that; essentially it would be 3.5mm headphone jack to speakers. I dont want the radio, or cd player from a dash unit just the AUX in. I think I will need an amp, or some type of signal booster, so that the two speakers will have some umph to em. I have yet to really research this, but once I find a diagram that will work I will add it in. once the diagram is complete it will have routing plans so you can have a coveted "invisible harness", wire gauge and length; and total cost needed for the entire car. Or, if anything, to be used with a painless or EZ-Wiring kit. Edited March 17, 2010 by crazyoctopus added alternator notes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezer Posted March 17, 2010 Share #2 Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) For your first time attempting to re-wire a car, you have a very good understanding of the circuitry and I am sure you will be successful. Just a matter of planning the physical layout of the harnesses and making use of some better connectors. I am guessing you will be using weatherpack connectors? Nice project, good luck!http://www.electerm.com/packardweather.html Edited March 17, 2010 by geezer added link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted March 17, 2010 Share #3 Posted March 17, 2010 So are you looking for honest critiques/feedback? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbudvet Posted March 17, 2010 Share #4 Posted March 17, 2010 So does being drunk help with your electrical wiring skills? I can't even do that stuff sober! Good luck with the project. Let us know how it works out. carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share #5 Posted March 17, 2010 -geezer - I have yet to source out the connections and relays, so that link is super helpful. and as far as the layout goes, I am planning to get measurements and lay it all out on a piece of plywood with nails and twine. - SteveJ -honest critiques = yes please. mainly looking at the fuse and relay amperage, let me know if they are too high or low; If there is any chance that I can tie two circuits together, or if I have something wired incorrectly. - cbudvet - i guess it does! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezer Posted March 17, 2010 Share #6 Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) You need to add several more circuits into your plan. Most are a matter of convenience but some are nessesary. Your diagram doesn't show the horn button, relay or horns. I don't know if you are planning on running an electric fuel pump. If so you will want to incorporate an emergency shutdown circuit also. Other conveniences that come to mind are door switches, dome/interior lighting, windshield washers, rheostat, glove box light, rear defroster grid, handbrake indicator, antenna switch. The horn and windshield washers are needed to make it legal, everything else, your choice to add in or not. There are some good charts available to determine wire gauges. Other than that, planning good circuit protection and wire routing are your main concerns. Is your battery going to be in the stock location? From looking at your diagram, it appears you are taking the minimalist approach. Is this intentional? Are you going for the hidden/invisible harness look? Just trying to get on the same page.Look up the recent thread, where I described how to number/label circuits, connectors, wires, making it easy to layout/follow a harness. I think it was cbudvet's thread. I'll look it up and link it here. Could be helpful.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=314100&postcount=9http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm Edited March 17, 2010 by geezer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted March 17, 2010 thanks geezer, -Horn button and relays are replaced with the CB and its 100w PA. -forgot about the fuel pump and i'll make sure to add that in, as well as the appropriate shutdown circuit. =thinking about the shutdown circuit i forgot to show the the battery disconnect switch -all interior lighting is removed, and replaced with a battery operated flashlight -rear defrost, rheostat, handbrake ind are not going back in. -antenna switch is not needed due to me not having a radio, and the area that usually holds an antenna will be replaced with a CB antenna that doesnt require power. battery is located in the storage bin behind the passenger; the PC680 fits PERFECTLY in there =it has since been lined with an 1/8th inch thick rubber mat to protect from grounding out. yes my goal is minimalist with an invisible harness. as far as the wiring thanks for the link it will be very helpful, as of right now i plan to use RV wire due to it already coming insulated as well as with multiple wires and colors; not finalized yet. for the windshield washers, i thought it was just the law to have blades not the pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share #8 Posted March 18, 2010 updated for kill switch and fuel pump. large image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4442635632_fcedeea5fc_o.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share #9 Posted March 19, 2010 Moved the wiper motor onto the heater circuit, it just looks like I may be overloading the accessory circuit. The heater connections have been changed. I was planning on running the core with a PC fan, but found this site http://mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/necessary_stuff.htm and am going in that direction. In looking at prices and weights of how to connect the iPod to speakers I found that while a head unit is about $10 more than just an amp, it weighs about 3 times as less. as of right now the cheapest deck that I can find with an aux-in is this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Dual+-+50W+x+4+In-Dash+CD+Deck+with+Detachable+Faceplate/9463154.p?id=1218108653996&skuId=9463154 ==if you know of a cheaper one I am all ears, all it needs to have is an aux-in. also added a cigarette lighter so that I can charge my iPhone/iPod while on the road. I think this is nearly the final design version of the diagram, if you can see anything that I missed or ways that I could combine circuits let me know. My goal is to have 8 circuits, but as long as I am under 10 I will be a-okay with it. larger version http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4444494096_1d942b906f_o.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezer Posted March 19, 2010 Share #10 Posted March 19, 2010 I think you will re-draw your diagram again, when it becomes evident improvements can be made. It could be for simplicity of wire routing or an attempt to hide the harness components. Certainly nothing I could point out right now, but circumstances you may come across when the theory becomes reality. Looks pretty good so far, you are off to a good start and I for one will enjoy following your progress. I like the simplistic nature of the Z and a simple, reliable electrical system will absolutely compliment your car. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share #11 Posted March 19, 2010 oh i agree completely. before i pick up the exhaust components tomorrow i kinda want to move stuff around so as to make it look the the routing and placement of everything, but it all depends on how much alchy i ingest, and how early i wake up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted March 27, 2010 Author Share #12 Posted March 27, 2010 new revision, made everything modular. kinda wanted to keep it below 10 circuits but we found some fantastic fuse and relay boxes out of a 90s maxima so how many circuits we use is no longer an issue. larger size >> http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4467690139_0c31f79cfe_o.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb
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