Wiring diagram complete re-design: diagram included

[crazyoctopus]

the safety switch isnt a temporary on, it is a standard switch. all it does is break the connection from button to starter if it is off; that way if i am in a not-so-safe neighborhood i can just flick it off and by pushing the button it does nothing. the name of safety is a bit misleading should have been "security," my mistake.

i can see what you are talking about with their own individual circuits, and since i have the room to run them i will be separating them.

for the kill switch i came across this diagram and really dig that it ground switched rather than the hot switched BIG RED LEVER that most people use.

==actually i really dont like this layout due to there being many connections to the battery post, also these wires would be used in place of the power that i already have going to those locations. i am reworking what i see here so that it runs before the switches/relays giving a true kill.

flood light, yeah... just need to find one in a junk yard... hmmm maybe i'll head over today and see if there is one.

In regards to the fusable links via maxi, since it adds safety without adding a significant addition of complexity I dont see why i wouldn't include it.

Edited March 31, 2010 by crazyoctopus
diagram for kill switch wasn't working for me...

[crazyoctopus]

Alright, I am not sure if this actually works, but the theory of this kill switch makes inebriated sense.

one switch for the dizzy and alt, but has their own relay, even though i know they dont need one it makes it a ground switch and can control both circuit without much load on it. when the ground kill switch is off all power running to the relays will be cut; before and after the fuse box.

I added a few maxi fuses in there, the 120A from the starter to the fusebox is just a guess, 10A at the coil and alt are to match what is in the fuse box.

Edited April 1, 2010 by crazyoctopus
added details

[crazyoctopus]

yeah that wont work... i'll fix it in the morning...

[geezer]

Look this over and see if it is suitable.

In this drawing I forgot to put in the Ignition Relay which is needed to shut off the engine. You can use a switch on the dash to supply a ground for this relay. With this plan there is only the Battery Cable, the Charge LED, which will require two wires (to and fro) and two smaller gauge ground control wires for the Ignition & Starter Relays, that are needed in the cabin. Easiest/cheapest solution for a Kill Switch is a manually operated one.

Using the Jumper Wire from the S terminal to the Bat. terminal on the Alternator will work but will not sense the voltage drop as effectively as it would if connected to a distant fused source.

Edit: After thinking about it, I will redraw that diagram. It will work like I've shown but I have compromised the circuit protection by using a jumper wire on the relays connecting Pins 30 & 86. I did this just to try to keep the amount of wiring to a minimum and you can run it that way if you like but I would recommend running wires to Pin 86 from the fused sources in the Power Distribution Center for that purpose instead.

Edited April 1, 2010 by geezer

[geezer]

Ok after looking at it closer I found that Pin 30 can be jumped to Pin 86 as long as Pin 86 is fused. It is, in my second attempt. Your choice, to use the Charge LED or just eliminate it. I'm not very good at drawing these but I hope it helps.

[crazyoctopus]

liked the second one alot. i might run into an issue with the kill switch being tapped onto my main battery cable; 1 awg is thick $^!#. i like how the relays are laid out and how everything is tied together. i'll make these changes when i can, but before i do i need to throw some pretty parts on teh car

[geezer]

The first thing you should do, is find out what the rules are. It may be in the rules that you need an alternator interupt circuit, to prevent the possibility of a self energized field winding and possible run on. And if that is a rule, you can bet that you will need a fuel pump shutoff as well. This is easy stuff to do, if needed.

The master battery disconnect will no doubt be a requirement and there is no problem fitting the 1AWG cable with terminals that connect to a master shutoff switch.

I attached this link showing a shutoff switch that is NHRA approved only as an example. It has the removeable extention rod on it that is used to provide a "push/pull" operation from the outside/rear of the vehicle. I made the same from a heavy duty switch from a tractor supply company for about $20.00; minus the NHRA approval. The cable and terminals, I got from the local welding equipment dealer, sold by the foot.

One other thing to consider. A lot of weight can be added by running a heavy cable the extra distance relocating a battery. Especially if another of the requirements is an "Approved" box to house the battery. When you stop and think about it, the benefits are not so great, relocating it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR1003-2?part=FLA-FR1003-2&view=64&N=700+-107651

Edited April 2, 2010 by geezer
bad speeling

[crazyoctopus]

yeah, I think that I will be relocating back under the hood. a lot less wring would be involved, and like you mentioned the weight of the 1awg wire wouldnt be there.

[crazyoctopus]

here is the updated with your relays taken into place; didn't add the charge led though. When I showed this to the co-creator he was told me to "stop changing the layout!" but I think that having the starter on a ground switch is awesome.

larger http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4494922924_ddfa414f76_o.jpg

once i get the car started up and running well, I will be attacking this on some plywood and getting the drawings laid out exactly like it would be on the car.

[geezer]

Looks like a good plan. The only thing I would recommend is the "in 30 out 87" deal, just so others don't get confused and you stay ISO compliant.

Good Work!

Edit: I did not look at this latest diagram close enough before saying it was a good plan. I was pressed for time and just assumed that you followed the example in my diagram. You changed it up and compromised the Starter Relay circuit's protection. You have not made the distinction between Maxi fuses and Mini fuses. Take another look at the way I have Pin 86 and also because it is jumped, Pin 30 protected by a Mini Fuse in the PDC. Same as the Ignition Relay. The Starter Relay is only being used as a means to control the Starter Solenoid with a Ground. The Maxi fuse is intended to protect the downstream cable coming from the Battery and the Starter Motor only. The way you have it configured the Starter Relay and associated wire can go up in flames before the Maxi Fuse blows.

Take another look at my example diagram. It's a crude drawing, the Mini Fuses aren't labeled, but everythings shown to make the Starter circuit safe and reliable.

Edited April 6, 2010 by geezer
Crucial Info added.

[crazyoctopus]

gotcha. tomorrow i will be pretty much free and clear; as most of it will be running around getting the brake lines that i need and researching on the proper initial tuning of the carbs, so i'll be able to make the changes that you mentioned.

for the 30 to 87 swap all i would have to do is swap the numbers correct? So it would be 85 ground switch, 86 feed form mini fuse, 30 jumpered to 86, and 87 gives power to object?

[geezer]

Yes, on your diagram just swap out the Pin 30 connections with the Pin 87 connections by changing the numbers. After making that correction and adding a fused source for the Starter relay, it should be good to go.