crazyoctopus Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share #37 Posted April 7, 2010 changes made, removed the slow action of the wiper as well. it is now, from what i can tell, fast-off (honda wiper motor). large image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4498464677_2382771c22_o.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezer Posted April 7, 2010 Share #38 Posted April 7, 2010 (edited) It is good to go, as far as keeping with your minimalist theme. If it was my car, I would use whatever extra wire was needed in order to separate the control side of the relay (pin 86) from the battery power (pin 30), using seperate fuses to protect, but it will work as is. A few more details will have to be kept in mind when you actually implement the plan. It would be a good idea to separate the bus bar (fuse feed), so the headlights high beams and low beams and perhaps the fog lights are derived/grouped from a dedicated Maxi Fuse. Look at any fuse box and you will see that the high amperage draw items have a dedicated wire and fusable link/maxi fuse connecting to the bus bar. Just something to keep in mind, instead of having 1-150 amp Maxi Fuse covering everything on 1 bus bar. That is something you can decide on when the components come together in the car. Each end device/accessory and length/gauge of wire used will have to be evaluated in order to assign the proper sized fuse for each. You can never go wrong by using too small of a fuse to start with. Good luck and I hope I was helpful. Edited April 7, 2010 by geezer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share #39 Posted April 7, 2010 in regards to the 1 maxi to run all of the fuses, i will be running 2. Here are a photo of the fuse box that i will be using so yes there will be 2 maxi's one for each side bank of fuses, I am currently working on the soon-built diagram showing the approximate path, location of all of the switches, relays, fuses, and wire colors to said relays and fuses. the 1 maxi per-bank will be brought in to that layout. and yes to proper fuse amperages, i think i mentioned it way back when, but the fuse amperage is just a guideline for now until i get the actual draw of the unit and the length of wire. This weekend the junkyard is having a 1/2 off sale so I will picking up a wiper motor, maxi fuse panel, and possibly a 5 speed if the bank account says it is okay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted April 25, 2010 Author Share #40 Posted April 25, 2010 Right now i am in the process of making the diagram look like it will be wired, as well as seeing where I could cut costs. While trying to fix my brake issue I noticed that the 240z has a 2 terminal flasher unit so I am in the process of working that relay into the drawing. would this set up work? the only thing that I am hesitant on is the emergency switch, I feel that if i turn on the turn signal switch both lights will still come on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted April 27, 2010 Author Share #41 Posted April 27, 2010 i scrapped the idea of going with that turn signal diagram and went back to the old one. - modified the amperages on the fusebox to match what is actually present - color on the fuse box represent the different circuits built into the box - different colors in the fuse box represent a change in amperage from stock - big visual change for routing. - red switches represent HOT switch, rather than a ground switch larger image found HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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