I recently started to remake the interior in my 72 and for some reason my doors wont lock. When i slam the door shut ( this is in both doors) and try to lock it (window open) pressing plug, it wont go down. I tried to adjust strikers but it just messed my door alignment. I dont have dovetails

I tried also moving that round thing on the door (forgive my idiocy) in to different positions but it didnt make any difference.

Halp!

Does the lock button function with the door open ?

I recently started to remake the interior in my 72 and for some reason my doors wont lock. When i slam the door shut ( this is in both doors) and try to lock it (window open) pressing plug, it wont go down. I tried to adjust strikers but it just messed my door alignment. I dont have dovetails

I tried also moving that round thing on the door (forgive my idiocy) in to different positions but it didnt make any difference.

Halp!

My guess is that the lock/latch is not rotating enough after coming in contact with the striker. This is frequently evident by the door wiggling, yet not coming open. Unless the lock rotates fully, you cannot operate the push button locks.

This can be verified by manually roating the lock with the door open. You will need to rotate it 90 degrees if I recall correctly. You can tell by doing it slowly and listening for two clicks. At that point, you should be able to lock the door. Be sure to unlock the door and lift the door handle to rotate the lock into the open position before attempting to close the door.

If the manual technique works, the issue is with the alignment and/or wear of the striker on the door. Some people have resolved the wear issue by grinding a small amount of material away from the striker, allowing the lock to rotate fully. I believe there is a thread here that links to a Hybridz thread describing how to do this.

Steve

Too many times to count, the problem is NOT that the catch on the door jamb is at fault, but rather that the LATCH on the door has lost a piece.

It's often missing, so much so that some people believe it doesn't exist... but it IS supposed to be there. That's the rubber "wrap" around the tab extending from the rotating center portion. If you look closely, you'll see that it IS a rubber sleeve if you will, if you can't find it... it's more than likely missing.

That piece of rubber acts not only to quiet the door and keep it from rattling once closed, but it also "thickens" the arm tab so that it will rotate the cam far enough to get to the second latching point.

There is a "non-fsm" method to repair this, but that may be controversial. This method of grinding material off the catch is probably even more non-fsm AND dangerous, surprisingly it's not being berated.

Post what you find.

E

E, do you have any pictures of the part that is commonly missing?

I don't think so. But it's easier to describe than to get a shot of it.

If you're familiar with the felt hammers in use in a piano, think of the felt wrapping. That's what it is, except it's made out of rubber.

Simply get a section of 1/4" ID tubing or thereabouts (I used a piece of scrap I had in the garage to fix a friends), and cut it's length to match the width of the latch part. Coat the rubber and latch part with a good contact cement and attach. The thickness is roughly the same.

I'll see if I can get a picture later (I just realized we actually have sun today).

E

I would appreciate that, E. I tried the grinding method and wasn't satisfied with the results. I just paid for a new set of strikers and would love to see if your fix would improve the door latching.

When I was having the same problems it was solved with new lube where metal to metal contact was made. The striker, the two rotating lock fingers. This was after I had adjusted everything that could be adjusted.

Bonzi Lon

Here are a couple of pictures that hopefully will explain things.

Also, here's a quick explanation of "terms", for lack of better nomenclature.

Latch = what you can see in these pictures, the rotating part of the lock that is attached to the door.

Catch = the stamped metal piece, AKA "striker". Seen in the door striker set pic.

Lobe = the finger/arm that engages the catch.

dovetail = the piece seen below the latch.

#31 shows the rubber surrounding the lobe/arm of the latch that is the first one to contact the catch on the door jamb. They're viewed from below. This is the rubber that commonly gets lost.

#32 shows the latch once it has "clicked" twice, i.e. fully closed.

#33 shows the latch completely open.

The distance between the two "notches" on the catch (the one on the door jamb) co-incide with the rotating distance of the two finger lobes on the latch.

When you close the door, the rubber coated latch strikes first initiating the rotation of the latch and allowing the second lobe to process into the second notch on the catch.

If the rubber coating is gone from the first lobe, the distance between the lobes is now lengthened, which causes the second lobe to impact deeper into the catch than designed and as a result, will not rotate far enough to allow the latch to reach the second "click" or fully latched position.

I erred in saying that the rubber surround on the first lobe prevents rattling, but it is important to have it as it is critical to the mechanism.

Gouging out the second notch on the catch on the side closest to the passenger cabin is the "repair" that's been suggested as a fix.

The dovetail that was mentioned as missing, inserts into the spring/lever visible in the picture of the blue car. It's function is to push on the door UP and OUT as well as dampen the door "slam".

Hope this makes sense.

E

Thanks for the pictures, E. They help a lot.

Thank you Escanlon and all others! Very constructive thread. I managed to get my driver side door working by adjusting striker a bit higher. But the passenger side door wont work even i rotate latch. 2 clicks and the plug wont still go down. Is there something wrong in the mechanism or what?

I already have window on place at the passenger side..hope i wont have to take it off.. :/

Rotate the Latch/Lobe cam with the door open, you should be able to get the complete 2 clicks.

Make sure the outside key-lock is in the "neutral", i.e. center/ straight up/down position.

Try pushing the Lock Knob down.

If it still will NOT go down, you need to remove the door panel to get access to the lock mechanism.

With a flashlight shining into the door, and specifically where the Lock Rod connects to the latch mechanism, press down on the rod and observe what it does / does not do.

Possible problem: The outside door handle has an adjustable length rod. If that rod is extended past a given point, it will actually BLOCK the locking mechanism from actuating.

Post what you find/adjust.

E

Alrighty, problem seems not to be in adjustable pushrod. It's actually too shortly adjusted atm.

In drivers side door there's 2 clicks but in pass side there is one click and one bump. So it sounds different too..