Yes, she has some issues.

Until recently, I have had full control over my turn signals. The TS fuse blows upon insertion. I believe it is the 10A common. I swapped it for a 20A, and instead of one side going blinking, all of my lights blink. More of a dim, really. Headlights, taillights, interior/dash, fuel pump, everything dims. Hudge amperage draw while dimming, as shown by the dash indicator.

Sometimes it starts by clicking really fast, quickly slowing in tempo, usually stopping by itself.

I had one headlight for the longest time, and two high beams. Nothing now, and no blown fuses. It's probably a loose wire somewhere.

Brake light fuse (20A) blows upon insertion. It worked until about a week ago. Anyone know a common location for this to short?

Dash will come off shortly to change the tach, and get the (extensive) surface rust back there with POR-15.

Seats coming off shortly, halfway through carpet removal and floorboard rust sanding (wire drill works wonders for this!)

Everything should be really easy to get at, and I want to fix these electrical issues "for good".

I can't wait to get at the bubbley and cracked dogleg.

I had recent thoughts about doing the whole dash harness, until I found this thread

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=314100#post314100

I then ordered a "good dash harness" for $60 shipped. zcar dot com. The only problems I see are figuring out which wires to tape off (5spd L28 swap, other aftermarket items)

I also ordered a bunch of OEM-style terminal plugs (pigtails?) from Vintage Connections, but also want some really good all-weather interconnects for the engine bay (distributor, starter, etc) and anything else I feel like using something special for.

Does anyone know if there are better connections out there than these to use? I am going to call their office tomorrow to find a local distributor.

http://grote.com/cgi-bin/goc/goc.cgi?product_number=83-6536

http://grote.com/cgi-bin/goc/goc.cgi?product_number=83-6503

Think this kit compares to that second link?

http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/fusion_solder_heat_shrink/fusion_solder_heat_shrink.html

Grote also offer "solder and seal", and "crimp, solder, and seal" terminal kits. Anyone have exprience with these over the built-in shrinkwrap style?

FYI, Dave, the taillight issue was the green-white wire in the 6-prong connector under the passenger's feet.

Edited March 19, 201015 yr by fiveleaf

First, don't put higher rated fuses in just because you blew a fuse. You're feeding a fault.

Second, check your bulb sockets for corrosion.

Third carefully examine the wires in the steering column. You could be missing the insulation from one or more wires, or you could have a wire loose.

For tracking down a short, disconnect the battery. Use an ohmmeter to look for low resistance between the positive side of the circuit and ground. The positive side of the circuit is between the positive terminal and the load. (In this case, all of the loads are lights.) It would help to take the bulbs out, too, so you're not reading continuity through the filament.