I'm a new member and new to Z cars. I've recently come into a '73 240z and I'm getting no spark. I've replaced the battery, battery cables, coil, resistor, condenser, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and points. Still nothing. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Elemental questions: Are all connections tight and corrosion free in your ignition circuit? Did you gap the points correctly? Are plugs fresh and clean?

Plugs are brand new and gaped properly. I've checked connections all around. Cleaned a few that had corrosion. The rest looked tight and clean. I should mention the car was sitting for six years. One owner previously and he didn't mess around with the wiring at all.

I'm a new member and new to Z cars. I've recently come into a '73 240z and I'm getting no spark. I've replaced the battery, battery cables, coil, resistor, condenser, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and points. Still nothing. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Well to me it looks like you have most all of the defective parts replacement issues already, so If it was me I would go straight for the wiring, specifically check if you coil is getting power like it should from the Ignition when turned on. It really sounds like your not to me. if you dont have a hot

at the coil with the key in the on position, you can try running a jumper from the battery just to test if the car will fire up or at least show spark when cranking..

Edited March 20, 201014 yr by jackboxxx

The coil is getting hot with the ignition on (now that I've finally switched the wires to the right terminals on the coil). I'm guessing the problem is somewhere in the distributor setup. Is it possible the new condenser is bad? I put the old one back on to double check and still nothing. Double checked the plug wires...1,5,3,6,2,4. Pulled the new plugs and they're still clean and with right gap. I'm stumped.

Simplify. The points do nothing but make and break a connection from the negative side of the coil to ground. Confirm this happens as the points open and close as you crank the engine.

The + side of the coil is supplied with ~9-10 volts when the key is ON (via the drop provided by the ballast resistor below the coil) and +12v when cranking. Verify that this is the case.

Get back to us

Jim

Edited March 21, 201014 yr by zKars

At the risk of stating the obvious, check your point gap to make sure is 0.020 plus or minus 0.002". Maybe the points are not opening. If the points are not opening the coil can get hot if the ignition is left on for awhile.

The wiring looks correct in the pictures. Be sure the coil is not the type that has an internal resistor. If you have a volt/ohm meter check the resistance of the primary and secondary windings of the coil.

I'm a new member and new to Z cars. I've recently come into a '73 240z and I'm getting no spark. I've replaced the battery, battery cables, coil, resistor, condenser, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and points. Still nothing. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Are you getting any hint that the car is trying to start?

or is it just nothing..

that would point towards a tuning issue.

how are you testing for spark?

are you looking at the points as they open / close? are you

pulling a spark plug wire and running a jumper and not seeing spark?

and yea sometimes you can get bad new parts...( like a condensor )

i know this sounds stupid but you do have fuel in the car dont you?

(you said it was sitting for years...)

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately, I only have access to the car every few weeks. It's now stored in a garage about 100 miles from me. The car has clean gas in it and does turn over. I've been using an in-line spark tester. I'll check the points to make sure they're opening and closing and set at the right gap.

I finally got back to working on my '73 240Z. Put a Pertronix ingnition with 3.0 ohm coil in and she started right up. Adjusted the timing and she's running great. First time the engine has run in six years.

Thanks to everyone for your posts and to everyone on this forum.

Great! Now go have some fun!

Thanks d240zx2. I will as soon as I change all the fluids, stop the coolant leak and replace the rotted floor pans. Don't want to end up sitting in the road .