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Then the socket option is also not going to work for you.

The replacement key would, but that's going to take a bit.

Since you're not trying to save the locknuts, why not take your small grinder (4") and grind two flat spots on either side of the top of the acorn and use the vise grips? The heat from grinding will loosen them up some, and grinding flat spots will give you something to grip. Just be sure to have the vise grips "bite" hard.

Arne's suggestion of welding a bolt head, as long as you're careful of the wheel would also work.

It CAN be done.

E

Edited by EScanlon



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...I have them sold to a guy for his mustang II.
Not to add insult to injury here, but '74 and newer Mustang II and later Fox body Mustangs have a different bolt pattern than your Z. The Z is 4-4.5", the '74-up 4 lug Mustangs are 4-4.25". The very early 6 cylinder Mustangs ('64-68 or so) used the 4-4.5" like the Z, but not the later ones.
Perhaps I could call some place like Summit and inquire about the number of 'codes' or 'patterns' that are available.
There are hundreds—if not thousands—of Gorilla codes. Summit will not have spare keys available, you would need to contact Gorilla for that, and they aren't going to sell you a key without knowing the code.

Here's another thought. Hit up your local tire shops to see if they have any old Gorilla keys lying about. Code doesn't matter at all. Bring it home and use a die grinder or Dremel to grind off all the splines save one. If there are both wide and thin splines, leave a wide one to match the one at 2:00 in your picture. Don't grind the other splines too far down, you want the key to have a very snug fit. You should then be able to use it to remove the locks.

Worst case scenario, you can buy another full set of locks to get a key to modify.

Not to add insult to injury here, but '74 and newer Mustang II and later Fox body Mustangs have a different bolt pattern than your Z. The Z is 4-4.5", the '74-up 4 lug Mustangs are 4-4.25". The very early 6 cylinder Mustangs ('64-68 or so) used the 4-4.5" like the Z, but not the later ones.

Arne, I ment he is trading his mustang II for my rims not that they would fit a mustang II sorry I didnt make myself clear. Startin to get discourged with this Z LOL seems I cant get a break. Iam gonna try all your guys ideas somthins gotta give LOL.

Would this work for removing it

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350224748897&viewitem=&sid=027SnapOn+wheel+lock+removal++br

Edited by Oregon260z

No solid guarantees, but if you have enough room to get these on the lock it should work.
Then the socket option is also not going to work for you.

The replacement key would, but that's going to take a bit.

Since you're not trying to save the locknuts, why not take your small grinder (4") and grind two flat spots on either side of the top of the acorn and use the vise grips? The heat from grinding will loosen them up some, and grinding flat spots will give you something to grip. Just be sure to have the vise grips "bite" hard.

Arne's suggestion of welding a bolt head, as long as you're careful of the wheel would also work.

It CAN be done.

E

If you get welding paper and put it on the rim you can protect the rim while welding

curious if this would work. It worked on my truck with a nut that was almost rounded (how the PO did that i don't know)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SP100A2814S164743307P?keyword=lug+nut+remover

Mr. Scanlon and Mr. Forester addressed the "obvious,"

but I feel moved to suggest something even more so:

Are you sure the adapter isn't in the glove box, in one

of the tool compartments, in the spare tire well, under

the center armrest, or even under one of the seats or

under one of the carpets? (That's where I found mine

after I had forgotten where I had put it!) :stupid::stupid:

A pair of compartments in the floor of the rear deck, under the carpet near the seats. I can't find any pictures right now, but that's where the jack and tire changing tools are stowed.

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