Repainting with Gold #920

[ajmcforester]

OK I'm going to use a restoration shop for paint and some dent repair. One of my worries it matching the #920 paint code. This isn't a common color and I've seen some color matches on Zs that were not to my par. I have seen some that look very accurate also. My question for you #920 guys is what paints gave you the most accurate to original finish and color? And anything else used to get that original paint look.

I'm even considering locating original paint, but that might be a little extreme.

[ZCurves]

I would not worry about finding 'original paint'. Modern paint compounds are far superior to that which was used 30+ years ago. Your paint shop should be able to match on the 920 color code. Have them paint a couple of blanks and compare those to an area near the spare.

[ajmcforester]

I agree the modern paint is a longer-lasting paint, the problem is the colors don't always act the same. This gold is very interesting on how it reacts to different lighting. I've seen newly painted cars looking correct in direct sun and not get that change effect in the shade like the original paint did. I've also seen the exact opposite. If I can achieve a factory looking paint with modern paint that's the rout I'll go.

[spitz17]

Here is a page that a topic similar to this one was discussed:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35839

Hope that helps!

spitz17

[ajmcforester]

Here is a page that a topic similar to this one was discussed:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35839

Hope that helps!

spitz17

I had been keeping up with that forum and that is why, I'm more concerned about color matching now. It sounds like the color from the manufactures are not as close as they can be. I took a panel down to the BASF paint supplier company he looked up the color in the computer, and brought out the samples, they are not close to the original. I showed them the numbers from the TVollnogle post and some of the other from that forum, also. He thought I might be better off finding old paint, after we took the panel into other lights. I'm still not ready to do that yet.

I don't know if I want to deal with the PPG store I went to it wasn't clean enough for me to have someone mix paints for my car. I'll see what I can find from a DuPont dealer soon. I don't want to be figuring this out when my car is at the shop it's one thing if figured out now can save a lot of money on the tail end of the project.

[Arne]

Are you planning to paint it yourself, or have a shop do it? If you are having it done at a shop, talk to the painter about the issues. He should be able to custom mix as needed to make it right. That's what I did on mine in 905 red. The paint mixed to code was not a great match, but after the painter tweaked it it was great..

[spitz17]

Just curious, are you painting that beautiful blue car of yours gold?

[ajmcforester]

Are you planning to paint it yourself, or have a shop do it? If you are having it done at a shop, talk to the painter about the issues. He should be able to custom mix as needed to make it right. That's what I did on mine in 905 red. The paint mixed to code was not a great match, but after the painter tweaked it it was great..

I have two shops in mind Marquis Auto Restorations in Philly (very well known shop) or Huff's in Asbury NJ (not Asbury Park wrong side of the state). Marquis is closer and a nicer shop and they will get it right , but it will cost a lot if they haft to fiddle quite a bit to get the color right, so info to help get it right before it goes in will keep the pocket more green. I have thought about changing the color to an easier one to match like green or white, but then I'd want to change the interior color to brown or blue accordingly. Besides I've gotten to like the gold since owning her, I think the best part is how it reacts to different light. I don't think I'll win best color awards with it, but I've never like to follow the crowd

[ajmcforester]

Just curious, are you painting that beautiful blue car of yours gold?

The blue one in the picture was the first Z I restored. I loved that car I would not have traded it, I even turned down a $40,000 offer. I was hit while stopped at 85MPH:sick:. I came out OK but the Illegals got away without their kids.

With the insurance money I am restoring a 240z I found in Detroit she lived their for 6 year. She started life on the streets in Beverly Hill with the original owner who had her for 31 years (I was playing around and found a aerial photo in 72 when she was getting washed in the driveway). She was sold out of an auto spa with a BRE spook (missing trying to locate an original), AC (getting rid of that boat anchor), and Datsun's side-stripes (I'm working on replicating). In 72 the original owner did a surgery that saved this man's life in return sometime in 73 she got JDM headlight covers. In late 74 she was hit by someone pulling into a parking spot. In the repair she was painted the factory red, the right door, fender and the two headlight buckets were replaced including all supporting brackets (the BRE spoiler and the JDM covers were never replaced). The last owner had this as his first car till the winter when his parents got him an additional car. It got some type of front damage the left inner fender wasn't fixed properly and the hood doesn't line up well at that time it was cheaply pained orange. I talked to Marquis Auto Restoration they can fully repair the panel without a replacement panel. Then I got it in August 2007 I drove it to NJ from Detroit, one of the fuel pump valves went west of philly and limped it into NJ. I drove it around for a while and made sure it was sound mechanically and fix electrical or anything not working properly (except the tach, but I ow one from the first z restored). Around November 2009 I started the tear down and the full restoration. I want to have her done by this summer, and done well before April 2011 for her 40th.

Well there's a short overview about my car

[Arne]

...and Datsun's side-stripes (I'm working on replicating).

You may want to contact JLPurcell as he had the original style reproduced a few years ago and was selling sets now and again. I don't know if he still has any available, but his were the original style with the '240Z' open to the body color rather than the reverse as MSA now sells.

[ajmcforester]

You may want to contact JLPurcell as he had the original style reproduced a few years ago and was selling sets now and again. I don't know if he still has any available, but his were the original style with the '240Z' open to the body color rather than the reverse as MSA now sells.

That is the one I want, I'll contact him. Thank you for the tip. I was going to put a post up to see if I could barrow an original to scan and create a vector file with. Then post the file with measurement so anyone could take it to a vinyl shop to cut a copy out. People could also make template to paint them on also. Even Kinko's and some office supply stores could make them with a vector file. I'd get several made and give one or more to who ever helped with their originals. This is not hard to do anymore, it would only take an hour to make the file. I'd have new stripes in less than a day.

[JohnnyO]

I have been going through the whole 920 gold paint questioning thing for about 4 months now. My personal opinions and some arguable facts are as follows:

PPG was Nissans choice for color match for the Zstore program - Arguable fact

I think the Single Stage matches more accurately - Opinion

I had 7 variants of 920 gold mixed by my PPG shop using parts from both the 23576 formula for PPG and a Prophet gun formula in both SS and B/C. None came as close to the original paint as the Single Stage 23576 formula - Opinion

Even though I had 40 year old paint from under the rear strut vinyl that had never, and I mean never, seen sunlight I know it was not the same color as the day it left the factory - Arguable fact

You will not get the correct color depth without applying multiple coats. My samples did not get to the correct color depth until after the 5th coat using PPG pro line. I was told not to buy the better paint because the color would not come out correct. I had my painter put 6 coats on to be sure I had even coverage. - Arguable Fact

You must prep the car correctly. DP epoxy primer, Light Grey Primer Surfacer and then the top coats. - Fact (no arguing that one)

I did end up painting the underside, inside wheel wells and engine bay with Single Stage. I did the topside with Base/Clear. The colors are so close that you cannot notice the difference in the engine bay, even where the fenders meet the wheel well. Again, this is because of the color depth with multiple coats. - Arguable Fact

I love the color it turned out - Opinion and Fact (you can't argue that one with me)

Either way you choose, just be sure you get enough paint on the car. Go shoot some new samples with the 23576 mixture from ppg. Shoot some with 3 coats then shoot some with 5 and 7 coats. Compare them in different light. You will be amazed how different they look.

Good luck and post some pics when she's getting done.

John