Hey guys.

This past weekend I installed a new timing chain kit on my Z. As I'm going to run the valves this weekend and have the valve cover off I would like to reassure myself I did it right. First off I used the #2 hole in the cam gear to set the chain. This was the way it was when I took the old one off. Is that OK to do. Timing at the moment is 12@1000 RPM (idle).

Secondly I have two manuals that have two different torque readings on the cam gear. The FSM says 90-100 ft lbs while the Haynes manual says 40 ft lbs. Which one is right? I set it to 40 ft lbs as the 100 just didn't seem like the right number to me.

Thank guys

Jan

90 to 100 ft lbs or whatever is humanly possable with some red loctite on the threads.

As for the timing mark with a new chain set to the #2 hole most likely will set your cam advanced. It will be a torque monster down low but might run out of steam on top.

Hey guys.

This past weekend I installed a new timing chain kit on my Z. As I'm going to run the valves this weekend and have the valve cover off I would like to reassure myself I did it right. First off I used the #2 hole in the cam gear to set the chain. This was the way it was when I took the old one off. Is that OK to do. Timing at the moment is 12@1000 RPM (idle).

Secondly I have two manuals that have two different torque readings on the cam gear. The FSM says 90-100 ft lbs while the Haynes manual says 40 ft lbs. Which one is right? I set it to 40 ft lbs as the 100 just didn't seem like the right number to me.

Thank guys

Jan

You did take a look at the size of that bolt, didn't you? 100 ft/lbs is the 'right' number!

Advancing the cam is not really a bad thing, and the second position on a fresh chain is 4 crankshaft degrees. Not a lot, but you may find some more low down torque available.

How do you like to drive? If you potter and rarely go over 4k rpm, then you've set up your cam well. If you drive hard all the time, then your cam is too small anyway! Or it won't be long before you'll be looking for power ups and the stock camshaft is very often one of the first "to upgrade".

Personally, I love the little stock profiles and set them up in my car with lots of advance and combined with lots of ignition advance, creates a torquey, economical and responsive engine.

It's all up to you now....

Yes I did look at the bolt. Its rather large but it seemed odd to me that the crank and cam bolts were both tightened to the same torque specs. I have driven the car since the said advance in timing. She most definitely has lower end torque now. I usually drive between about 3 and 5k. Anywhere above that is really pushing a stock motor in my opinion.

I'm going to run the valves here soon so I'll torque the cam down to the stated torque.

Thanks

Jan

The camshaft and harmonic balancer bolts are the same, same thread pitch and diameter except for the size of the head on them.

The cam bolt will fit where the crank bolt goes and visa versa.

Now you know why they have the same torque specs!

Cheers

Ps, what does 'run the valves' mean?

Run the valves. I've heard this a number of times from Datsun guys use the term to describe doing the valve clearances. So this week sometime I'm going to pull the cover and do the valve clearances. (along with trying to figure out exactly what is making a rattling noise up there on deceleration)

I just got back from a drive with said Z. Hell of a lot of fun now mate, drove it for about an hour or so.

Jan

Thanks for the definition mate

Glad to hear that your machine is running strongly!