How come my battery frame doesn't look like yall's?

[d240zx2]

#5. My battery died this morning. What brand/part number battery did you find at Mossy that fits properly.

The reason I ask is that my old battery is about an inch shorter than the original and I've had to shim it up with 1 x 2 wood pieces to allow the hold-down bracket to be tightened properly.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Go optima red top Frank, they are sealed and do not off gas or corrode our precious thin sheet metal.

[d240zx2]

#14. I'd thought of that, but have only seen Optimas that are quite a bit shorter than the height required for hold-down bracket attachment. I'll check out their dimension selection to determine if I can use one.

Thanks!

[Unkle]

The optima fits perfectly , and it also somes with a plastic ''booster seat''

for cars that need a taller battery to fit the factory hold down brackets.

[BTF/PTM]

#5. My battery died this morning. What brand/part number battery did you find at Mossy that fits properly.

The reason I ask is that my old battery is about an inch shorter than the original and I've had to shim it up with 1 x 2 wood pieces to allow the hold-down bracket to be tightened properly.

The Nissan part group for the battery is a 24C. Not sure exactly what it means, but it was a nearly dead-nuts fit into the battery frame. I'd guess it's a one-size-fits-many part number which is why they called it a group. Take the frame with you just in case. The battery was $104 after tax, plus a $12 core.

p.s. - would Y'all mind posting a picture of an Optima red-top mounted with the stock battery frame? I couldn't see how it would work with the few Optimas the parts stores had, but maybe they just didn't have the specific part number for our cars. The advantage of a sealed battery would definitely be nice.

Edited March 26, 2010 by BTF/PTM

[d240zx2]

I checked out Optima's website and found that a group 34 met the dimensional requirements precisely.

Also, I had the parts store test the battery... found it just needed a charge (it's been 4 weeks since it's been started). So I put a charge on it, cleaned the terminals and cable lugs and "vroom!" off we go for a 30 mile run. That's $182.50 I won't need to spend for another little while.

Y'all and all y'all drive safely, ya heah?

[CoastGuardZ]

For all interested... the Nissan Battery P/N 999M1-NB24F (that's a Group 24F Battery) fits great and has the added bonus of getting the Positive Terminal out from under the fender.

All of Y'all really got carried away with the y'all comment!

Now Stephen, I don't recall any of us Southern Statesmen giving permission to California to use bastardized words like "y'all"... As I feel it rest solely on the south to make a mockery of the English Language Anyway, how's that GTO treating you? Do you miss your Datsuns?

[Z-Luke]

The Nissan part group for the battery is a 24C.

It is indeed a 24C. The battery expert at the local battery store is really good, he knew what it was right away. It fit perfectly, matched the firewall bolt and all.

[BTF/PTM]

For all interested... the Nissan Battery P/N 999M1-NB24F (that's a Group 24F Battery) fits great and has the added bonus of getting the Positive Terminal out from under the fender.

I agree with bringing the positive terminal out from under its "proper" location. I turned the battery around in its frame so the hot lead is facing into the engine bay. I've had both a Nissan place and a local z car specialist place tell me that the correct layout is with the hot lead under the fender, but that just doesn't seem safe to me.

[cygnusx1]

I agree. Both my Z batteries are "R" or "reverse post" models. However, if you are using the original metal frame to hold down the battery, make sure that the cut outs in the frame, designed to clear the posts, are n the proper location. You DO NOT want the hold-down frame to be too close to the + post. Hitting the frame with a wrench on the positive post is a bad thing.

Edited April 21, 2010 by cygnusx1