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What parts from a 76 Datsun 280z


woytovich

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I will be at a pick n pull next week that has a 1976 280z. I don't know if it's auto or manual.

I have a 71 240z.

What, if anything, should I consider pulling for my 71 (I am generally keeping it stock but would consider stealth upgrades - ones that are helpful to the experience but don't change the visuals much)

- 5 speed (if so, what ancillary bits and pieces should I score?)

- Seats (mine are pretty trashed, I'd prefer period correct but would consider other options, f they look right)

- what else?

Also: what is worth scoring for it's resale value? (accepting requests - prices will be very fair to those requesting in advance)

Thanks,

Mark

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Thanks...

R200 diff - different ratio? stronger?

half-shafts & diff flanges & mustache bar - match to diff? stronger?

rear drums - "better"? why?

alternator - higher amp?

along with whatever else you see that you can afford... - that's a pretty general statement. Prices are this yard are typically dirt cheap...

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Basic metric hand tools, i.e. sockets, OE & box end, pliers, wire cutters, you know, everything you have in the garage.

The R200 is stronger with a typical ratio of 3.90, and coupled with a 5 speed gives much better performance than the OEM 3.36 R180. I'll never go back!

The other parts/pieces are required for the changeover.

Rear drums because they're getting more scarce.

Alternator because of the higher output and internal regulator. Get Dave Irwin's headlight relay pak and his magic $15 plug to convert the alternator. Zsondabrain is his CZCC moniker.

You will find more to love about your Z the more you bleed on it.

Frank

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I took out the stock R-180 out of my 1972 with 3.36 gears and replaced it with a R-200 out of a 1976 that had a 3.54 rear differential. Big difference. I was pretty surprised. Stronger,yes I am sure. I have alot of parts for my car and I am sure they get harder too find . The doors will will work as well as the front fenders,quarter glass, rear hatch. Alot of things 70 thru 78 will match up. However a few things will not. You can buy many things "aftermarket" or old stock NOS/OEM. I prefer "original". There are just a few things that are really hard to find. Just my opinion:D

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1976 has the 3.54 R-200. You would need the half-shafts, mustache bar, etc. to use the R-200 in your 240. I think that you'll need 12, 14, 17 and 19 mms to get the various nuts and bolts off.

The standard manual transmission for 76 was a 4-speed also, so you probably won't find a 5 but you never know.

And, not to be more of a downer, the 76 alternators were externally regulated too. But the alternator looks to be higher output than the 240 (I show 72 as 50 amp by the FSM and my 76 came with a 60 amp), so it might be a bolt-in upgrade.

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