Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

help: 71, 72, 73 wiring diagram inconsistencies


saridout

Recommended Posts

I'm working on a color version of the 1972, and i'm having some problems sorting out the colors of some of the exterior light wires. Mainly, the white/black and white/red wires that go from the hazard light switch to the brake lights.

when coming from the hazard switch, the white/black goes through a connector of some kind, comes out the other side as white/red, and in some unmarked spot between that and the light, turns green/black. it's the same sort of thing with the white/black coming from the hazards.

can anyone tell me what the actual colors of these are? also, what is the connector they go through that's depicted in the diagram as a bar? please see the attached image for reference.

EDIT: can anyone tell me why some of the wire lines are dashed?

post-18856-14150810437499_thumb.jpg

Edited by saridout
additional question
Link to comment
Share on other sites


If I had to guess, from experience. I'd say that is the connection point in the passenger side kick panel.. Reason for my logic is this..... The room light, tank unit, sidemarker light and everything else to the right of that line (box) is attached to the rear of the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After having studied numerous versions of the early Z wiring diagrams, here's my view.

The "Bars" are what was used in the original wiring diagrams as a separator between the Instrument Panel (dash wiring - 2 separate harnesses); the Engine Compartment and the Body Harness (Tail Section). The dashes you refer to are additions or modifications to the original wiring as well as optional equipment. While some of those items are seen as "stock" they are in fact, additions/modifications.

There are various clues to my statements. The Fog Light wiring, the rear window defrost wiring, the step-light wiring, and the fuel pump wiring (Note that the fuel pump doesn't go through the rear "bar"), are all dashed wiring.

As to the change in colors to the rear lights, I surmise that when the Z was brought to the US and it lost it's separate turn signal / brake wires, there was some modifications forced onto the wiring.

The circuitry had to be modified to accept the Hazard Switch / Turn Signal / Brake Signal circuits sharing bulb elements and wires. The Japanese and European vehicles did not have to have this joining of the wiring, and their turn signal wire is separate from the brake wire (and the hazard is also separate). Vis-a-vis, when you install "European" tail-lights into your US market 240Z, in order for them to operate properly, you need to separate the Brake wiring from the Turn Signal wiring at the Combination Switch and run a separate wire all the way to the tail-lights.

On Edit, I added a couple of pictures that show some of the connectors between the harnesses. These are for US market cars, I'd like to see if someone has an equal set of pictures for a Japanese or European market car as the differences may yield more information. A full wiring schematic would be a bonus!

Just my 2¢

E

post-1490-14150810439621_thumb.jpg

post-1490-14150810440279_thumb.jpg

post-1490-1415081044084_thumb.jpg

Edited by EScanlon
Added Wiring Pictures
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Enrique, I took a quick look in the S30-PS30 FairladyZ parts catalog. It shows listings of 7 different engine harnesses, 12 instrument panel harnesses and 8 body harnesses. That is covering the Japanese domestic market for the 1970 model year only. That is why most of the wiring diagrams are generic in nature and were always subject to change or in a state of being updated. Although the US/Canada diagrams were simpler because of limited optional equipment, they were constantly evolving as well. My eyes are not so good anymore and it pains me to look at a diagram such as this one (camera shot). It is from our archives and may be of some interest. I have others, I will look for later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As to the change in colors to the rear lights, I surmise that when the Z was brought to the US and it lost it's separate turn signal / brake wires, there was some modifications forced onto the wiring.

Thanks, this is very helpful. But what are the actual colors in a US model car? There is no discernible joint in the wires between the dash wiring/tail panel separator and the tail panel itself, but both white reds change to different colors by the time they hit the panel. is there a joint there that is not represented on the diagram? if so, how do you think it should be graphically represented?

edit: wait, maybe i understand. does the color change at the plug between the rear harness and the tail light pigtail, which isn't represented in the diagram?

Edited by saridout
Link to comment
Share on other sites

...edit: wait, maybe i understand. does the color change at the plug between the rear harness and the tail light pigtail, which isn't represented in the diagram?

Exactly.

The wires coming OUT of the "Body Harness" are the ones that correspond to the tail light in the colors shown on the diagram. (I'm going to qualify that with: the last few cars that I have seen and I don't have one in front of me, nor readily accessible to disect.)

Now, the two wires going to the back of the car for the joint Brake/T/S bulb are NOT both White/Red. That is a typo going back to some of the first publications of the wiring diagram.

The wire going to the RIGHT hand rear tail-light is White/BLACK or WB. The problem in the diagram arose when they first copied it, whether by photocopy or mimeograph and the lower portion of the B was lost and became an R, albeit one with a rounded "leg". After that, the WR/WR typo existed on most wiring diagrams. Follow the Upper (the right hand light one) back towards the Combination Switch and you'll see that it IS labeled WB just to the left of the Water Temp / Oil Gauge.

Additionally, if you look at the photograph (important distinction) of the archived diagram, take a close look at the Tail-Light connections there. You'll note that there are 6 (SIX) wires to each tail-light. (The importance is due to the problems with resolution/focus that can lead to errors such as the WB-WR mentioned above.)

One of those wires is the STOP light wire, the GY wire that leads directly back to the Stop Light Switch, and does NOT go to the combination switch at all. The other "odd" wire is mentioned below.

Compare the balance of wires left and you'll see the remaining wires that match the wires coming out of your pig-tail.

FWIW

Enrique

Of the wire sets one is Br for the LH light, and BrW for the RH (front same as the rear). Those are for the Side Marker Lights that were required in Japan to illuminate the side of the car that was closest to the road. The bulb would go in the center of the tail-lamp housing and required a separate hole in the front marker light in the front. The rear tail-light housing (same in the US as Japan, but NOT the lens) has a rubber plug with the letter P on it. That's where the bulb goes, in essence behind the reflector.

Edited by EScanlon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It IS correct, as that is how it connects.

As far as accurate as to the colors in the ACTUAL wirng... I admit that it has been a while since I last had that part of the wiring exposed, so I'm relying on memory and I may be in error.

FWIW

E

Edited by EScanlon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another inconsistency (error?) in all 240Z diagrams seems to be the tach wiring. Starting from late '72, the four wire (current driven) tacho was replaced against the newer three wire (kickback driven) tach, but all 240Z diagrams i have seen just show the four wire tach. Has anyone seen a 240Z diagram actually depictig the three wire tach?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, but IMO it's a poor diagram. You'll have to excuse my not sharing it.

It is an attempt to re-draw the Z wiring in a Ford or Chevy format, i.e. circuits "arranged" all over the page, wide spaces between lines, generic re-directs (To Tachometer) without the Tachometer being shown on the page, blank "boxes" instead of switch connections (wires enter and leave.... SFM inside), whole circuits missing yet the diagram is billed as all inclusive.

Sadly, these are touted as "easy to use".... unfortunately, they get a lot of "press" and as a result nobody comes forth with a truly GOOD one in it's place.

Just my 2¢

E

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 866 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.