Electronic ignition - Revisited after I gave up!

[mlc240z]

Good to hear, Arne.

How is your tach? Does it still show rpm's thru to 6-7K? Does it bounce around after 4K?

Are you running the original '71 tach?

Edited July 21, 2011 by mlc240z

[Arne]

When I installed the Crane ignition (XR3000 with PS91 Coil) in my 72, I was instructed to jumper the ballast resistor. I have not had any issues since I installed it a few years ago.

Whether or not you should jump the resistor varies depending on the coil, mostly. In my case, the Crane PS20 coil not only said a resistor is required, but it actually came with its own matching resistor in the box.

How is your tach? Does it still show rpm's thru to 6-7K? Does it bounce around after 4K?

Throughout the entire process, my tach has worked perfectly. No issues in any config. Specifically, no bouncing, and runs with the revs all the way to redline.

[240zdave]

Sorry, missed this. You will increase the voltage to the coil without the ballast. The resistor is there to lower voltage so that the points last longer. You don't have to remove it, just run a jumper wire from one side to the other.

If you're talking about the points in the distributor, I'm running with a Pertronix, so no points. Race car setup is MSD6AL, MSD Blaster II coil, NGK Iridium plugs gapped to 0.050, a Pertronix, and vacuum advance disabled on the distributor. Street car is similar, with MSD6A, MSD Blaster II coil, NGK Iridium plugs gapped to 0.050, a Pertronix and vacuum advance disabled on the distributor. No ballast resistor at all on the race car, but still have it on the street car. I'm at work right now, and so can't tell you which wires are connected to the ballast resistor on the street car. My point is, if it works on the race car, it should work on the street car. The street car seems to be running fine, although I rarely rev the engine beyond 4500 RPMs.

[jmortensen]

I was pointing out why the ballast resistor was there in the first place. If the points are gone and you're running the Blaster II, jumper wire across the ballast will give a hotter spark.

[240zdave]

I was pointing out why the ballast resistor was there in the first place. If the points are gone and you're running the Blaster II, jumper wire across the ballast will give a hotter spark.

I'll give it a try and see if it works. Thanks.

[240dkw]

The Crane PS20 does not.

Did your reading confirm whether the negative or positive side?

Arne: I know it is a assumtion but I was looking at the drawing Blue posted in this thread today

"Need pic of stock coil and resistor setup"

and although it does not show the coil condenser it does show the double male connecter on the + post which is as far as I know is to connect the condenser.

Dan

[Arne]

Good catch, Dan. That would seem to indicate that the suppression condenser on the coil should connect to the positive terminal. I suspect that someone reversed mine at some point in the past to compensate for the failing dizzy condenser. Perhaps I'll re-connect mine to the positive side, but on the other hand, it's working well now, so why mess with it?