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Jack stands under seat belt pockets?


BTF/PTM

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I put jack stands on the lower front differential cross member when working on the fuel tank level sender seal, but I feel like that was too far inward for comfort if I'm going to be actually under the car. Do the seat belt retractor pockets behind the seats have the beef to put jack stands there?

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I have used the pockets before, but not my fave.

That front diff mount crossmember bolts to a rectangular frame tube that runs across the car back there to the outside edges of the car. It's just in front of the rear wheels and gives a good wide stance position for a jack stand and a very positive register point for the top of the jack stand. My favorite spot.

There is a "T" where another frame rail runs rearward, up and over the axles, and its just outside of that "T" spot that I aim for. I've even thought of making a custom top to the jackstand that registers in the frame T location for the best possible anchoring.

Chock the front wheels too and work on level ground. Toss your tires/rims under the car under the seats for "last chance" safety. You know the rules! (I HATE working under my car, just what I do to be max safe).

Jim

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Hey Andy,

I dug through my old photos. I think this was one of them you were looking for. Sorry but I was only able to find just the 1 and it's for the front when I did my ball joints and tie rod ends. Hope this at least helps give you a better idea of the front jack stand locations. Excuse my big foot in the way :laugh:

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Edited by DatsunZsRule
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Thanks!! I must admit I'm paranoid about the frame rails since they look hollow and fairly fragile since almost every z I've seen (including my own) has a few good-sized dents banged into the rails. My jack stands are the same time as yours with the "Y" head, so it looks like I'll be ok.

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I would NEVER put jack stands on the frame rails like that. Especially holding up the whole rear of the car. That's Suicide.

ZKars had the best suggestion. Pockets are fine but use the rear crossmember frame, just inside of the pockets. This will spread them out and allow for movement under the car.

Chock the front wheels, level ground and place your tires under the frame rail area under the seat area for a back up. Just as previously stated.

Be safe. You need to survive the job, to drive the car later....

Dave

post-4921-14150810491344_thumb.jpg

post-4921-14150810492022_thumb.jpg

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I've been having good luck with the pinch welds. The car is solid and after sitting for weeks everything is still sturdy.

You should post a picture of what you mean... the only case in which I would use a jack on the pinch weld is with the factory jack with the cutout to straddle the weld, if I were lifting ONLY one wheel.

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I used to have a block of wood with a cut down the middle, to slip over the pinch weld. So I could use a regular jack in the stock jack location.

The cut in the wood was Just deep enough to allow the metal to fit both the width and depth of the pinch weld steel.

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You should post a picture of what you mean... the only case in which I would use a jack on the pinch weld is with the factory jack with the cutout to straddle the weld, if I were lifting ONLY one wheel.
I used to have a block of wood with a cut down the middle, to slip over the pinch weld. So I could use a regular jack in the stock jack location.

The cut in the wood was Just deep enough to allow the metal to fit both the width and depth of the pinch weld steel.

I have a groove cut into the stand itself from using them on my honda.

The pinch welds have substantial material for holding the car.

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