So I was driving back from a few hours worth of errands in town, and I start to get backfires. I'm unsure as to whether it was from the carbs or exhaust, but I got them while pushing the pedal more than 20%.

I was low on gas, and the power loss felt like I was running empty. I've ran empty before, usually doesn't backfire.

I put some gas in her today, and charged the battery. Didn't start. Tried to a couple times, backfireing from the carbs. Typical if the webers are flooded, but may be an indication of another problem?

Looked at the ignotion box (Crane HI-6). If anyone know's these boxes, they have a red indicator light on them.

Solid red on "ready", and flashing while on "start".

Some electrical issues getting power to the ignition box, fixed them and there's still an issue somewhere.

Solid red on ready, stays solid while turning it over (which should mean it is not giving spark to the coil).

So my question... What can cause an ignition box not to give spark while turning the key?

**With this box, the light also flashes, in different patterns, if various problems are detected. No patterns, just no spark (stays solid).

The car:

L28, recent top-end rebuild/bore

Triple weber carbs, recent professional tune/jet (Not Dyno, but damn better than they were).

Mallory unilite distributor

Crane PS92 Coil (for Capacative Discharge ignition)

Crane HI-6 ignition box. Rev limit at 5K for now. About 2-3 months old, kept on the interior of the firewall.

Edited March 31, 201015 yr by fiveleaf

I would suspect that the HI-6 does not get a trigger impulse from the Unilite distributor, that would explain the LED staying on (it will switch off for each trigger impulse received).

You can test the HI-6 by touching ground with the white wire (points), each time you do that the LED will go off and you'll get a spark. Disconnect the Unilite distributor before doing this test. I have no experience with Unilite distributors, so can't recommend a testing procedure for checking it.

(Are you Tommy? )