Removing Heater control panel??

[EricB]

I did searches for "removing radio" "removing stereo" and "removing heater (control panel)" and have not turned up anything useful.....

I am looking to remove my circa '82 pioneer tape deck for an original Datsun Hitachi AM/FM radio I just got my hands on...

I've removed the center console, I've removed the buttons & knobs for the Heater Control, I've removed the face/trim of the Pioneer deck, I've removed the 4 screws that hold the HVAC panel in & have removed the map light...

Yet the HAVC panel appears to still be connected to the Heater control unit.... How do I remove them such that I can get better access for removing the junky Pioneer deck??

Would it be helpful if I posted a pic to show how far I've gotten?...

Thanks all....

[Victor Laury]

It's not too hard really. You'll want to have a 90 degree screwdiver. Release all four control cables. 2 on the passenger side, then the other 2 on the driver's side. I'm close to 300 pounds myself and can get to the cable clamps pretty well. It's a ten minute job.

[EricB]

oooooh..... a 90° screwdriver, huh? hmmm... well where does one get that from? ok well then let me look at it again with that info....

i got your PM too btw - thanks for the offer to help. Let me see if I can manage it myself first....

-e

[Victor Laury]

You'll have the best opportunity to lube the heater cables and control sliders! Use some Teflon spray cable lube (SuperLube?) from a bike store and some white lithium grease for the slider mechanism. And when your finished - SMOOTH OPERATOR!

The 90 degree screwdriver is a $3.00 affair from pepboys or Kragans or where ever! the best ones are the ratcheting ones from Craftsman. Be sure to use some penetrant juice on those screws before you try to tackle them. Don't want to strip out the Phillips slots!

Hopefully they didn't cut up the radio faceplate for the old radio install! Most times they did, and it just about ruins any plans to go back to stock. This wasn't a concern for me, replacing a Radio-Shackup cheapy with the fancy-smanzy JVC!

[EScanlon]

It's much easier to remove the four cables attached to the Heater Controls from the devices they actuate and then remove the panel as an assembly.

The 4 cables are connected 2 on the left side of the heater box itself, 1 on the right of the box to the water control valve and the last one, the longest goes to the fresh air flap which is behind the fan motor housing.

Once you have those 4 cables removed, you can just remove the 4 screws holding it and the map light after having removed the nuts holding the radio faceplate and radio. Then it's a simple pull and disconnect the harness to the heater switch. If you have the illuminated panel then you only need to also disconnect the light wire plug.

Using the 9_0° screwdriver works, but I honestly find that to be a major pain to reach in there and get the bit into the screw AND try turning it. Having had the console and dash out several times, trust me on this one, it's fastest to remove the cables at their ends than trying to disassemble the heater control plate.

While you are in there, do yourself a favor and check all your instrument light bulbs. Then if you are really ambitious, disassemble them and paint the insides of the cases white, they'll shine brighter and you'll really appreciate what you've done.

Good Luck, feel free to post if you have further questions.

Enrique

[Victor Laury]

Enrique,

That's what I'm talking about. Not taking the panel apart! I guess I wasn't clear?

The 90 degree screwdiver is for the heat control lever. Since the blower housing in so close, It's the only thing I found to get at the screw. The other three are pretty easy.

[EricB]

thanks for all the great input!!

will do all of this today...

-e

[EScanlon]

No problem Victor.

Unfortunately at another site there was a post where the responder suggested removing the heater cable control unit from the back of the face plate in order to remove the face plate from the dash. Since this is next to impossible for a normal human with only one elbow and one wrist on each arm, I had to reply.

Upon rereading your post, it may have been my misperception of what you posted. In either case, it's a good reply to him from both of us.

[Victor Laury]

Unfortunately at another site there was a post where the responder suggested removing the heater cable control unit from the back of the face plate in order to remove the face plate from the dash.

I must admit, when I first did this job I considered using this method - for about 10 seconds! Then I changed my mind and figured It was much better to release the cables. I've got three or so heater/radio panels downstairs, hanging from the ceiling by the cables like spiders.

[EScanlon]

Well, you learn something new every time you try to do something slightly different with the Z.

I own a 71 240. The original dash had several nasty cracks that would be a pain to fix, let alone do them right. I also own a 72 parts car which had a pristine dash. Difference between the two was only in the lack of the Hazard Switch Label Indent on the 71 dash that the 72 DID have. Or so I thought.

Wanting to "upgrade" my console area, I purchase a Heater Control Panel for a 73. This panel is illuminated and it has the same basic shape / look as the 70-72.

However, it is slightly different.

The Heater Cable Control Bracket, which is the metal part for the control arms and the light bulbs is just about 1/8 to 1/4" wider than the face plate.

This becomes a CRITICAL difference when you consider how the panel and console are assembled.

Most people tell you to install the center console first, THEN the radio followed by the Heater Control Panel.

With the original 70-72 Heater Control Panel and Cable Control Unit, this is not a problem as the unit will slide right in. (Granted you have to guide the cables in.) With the 73, that difference in the Cable Bracket makes it IMPOSSIBLE to slide in. You must instead NOT install the console first. You first install the radio, then you insert the cables and then slide the Heater Control Panel UP into place. Once there, you can secure and very carefully install the console.

Now, if you have a 70 or 71 Dash, it's possible that this will not be a problem for you. However, if you have a 72 dash, it's more than likely you WILL have this problem when installing the 73 HC Panel.

The 70 / 71 dash has a very subtle lip for the HC Panel to rest against. In fact, it's covered up with the vinyl that covers the entire dash. You can feel the edge of the supporting metal, but it is at best a slight ridge.

On the 72 dash, this lip is now a distinctive EDGE, and the vinyl is cut right at the edge. The lip is approximately 3/16" wide on each side. I had considered grinding it off, or even hammering it down, but decided that that may create more problems than it's worth.

So, live and learn.

[cardogman1]

funny you should ask I just did that yesyerday. What a pain in the i can't say it on this sight. Whats holding you back is the slider cables to the heater box there still atached. You have to take down the heater assembly underneath the glove box on the passenger footwell. The cable go back on the way you detatched them. Be careful of the fan switch knob. When you pass it's stem back through the hole you have to line it up so that the little whole inthe stem that the tiny screw goes through the knob and then the stem is calibrated or positioned so the white arrow lines up to "off" or you will be playing with this until you go insane. Don't crack the plate it's very thin on the bottom. If you need any other suggestions email me I had the darn thing off yesterday.

regards burt

[EScanlon]

There's no need to remove the Fan Switch from the Panel. Doing so just guarantees you the problems you had.

The whole Heater Control Panel h the Control Lever Assembly and Cables AND Switch come off as an assembly.

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