Removing Heater control panel??

[adamr]

BTW, anyone who needs heater control cables, or lost a knob screw, you can get these replacement parts at:

www.new-datsun-parts.com/

Carl was very professional. He also may have parts not listed, and seems to have a line on new stuff when he runs out.

[adamr]

BTW, anyone who needs heater control cables, or lost a knob screw, you can get these replacement parts at:

www.new-datsun-parts.com/

Carl was very professional. He also may have parts not listed, and seems to have a line on new stuff when he runs out.

[adamr]

Enrique,

As usual, you are a big help. I have been putting off the intsallation of my NOS heater control panel. I got the new cables. I agree that disconnecting at the vents is much easier, but cannot seem to get to the one which opens the vent to the blower motor "chamber". Do you know a midget with small hands? I have an older aftermarket a/c. That and the blower casing make it impossible to access the screw to undo the cable.

Do I have to try to remove EVERYTHING under my glove box (which has been removed and awaits install)? I hope not. I did the Honda blower motor upgrade. It really kicks arse. So, I have really been looking forward to completing this installation. With that and my series one AM radio, my interior will be complete.

For others who may want further reading:

Here's a few links to several articles that address what you're doing.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=6981

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4429

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=7291

HTH

E

[EScanlon]

For others who may want further reading:

Here's a few links to several articles that address what you're doing.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=6981

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=4429

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=7291

HTH

E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=6981

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=4429

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=7291

Apparently the software that "shrinks" the URL has changed and now "t=" needs to be "threadid=".

Interesting that the software is still there to shrink URL's but not smart enough to update and correct itself due to the change.

I wonder just how many hundreds of similar URL links all over the threads are now .... dead.

2¢

E

[EScanlon]

Adam:

Don't know that I can offer much help on this one as I haven't dealt with an AC Z car for years. (By the way that acronym rolls of the tongue... AC Z!)

I do recall removing the cable behind the blower motor housing from a car with AC in the boneyard years ago, and other than having to "feel" your way there and using a 90° screwdriver (or a very short stubby, like a P2 bit in a holder), I can't suggest anything there.

Lying on the floor and looking up, or using some inspection mirrors might help, but don't know that I can offer much more.

Anyone else out there that may shed some light?

E

[adamr]

I can see it, I simply cannot get my hands back there. I'll get on it before the end of next week, I hope. Nothing will stop me from driving my ACZ in Big D when it's 103 degrees. You with me, "E"?

Adam:

Don't know that I can offer much help on this one as I haven't dealt with an AC Z car for years. (By the way that acronym rolls of the tongue... AC Z!)

I do recall removing the cable behind the blower motor housing from a car with AC in the boneyard years ago, and other than having to "feel" your way there and using a 90° screwdriver (or a very short stubby, like a P2 bit in a holder), I can't suggest anything there.

Lying on the floor and looking up, or using some inspection mirrors might help, but don't know that I can offer much more.

Anyone else out there that may shed some light?

E

[rdefabri]

You can't disconnect the cables AT the HCP levers without un-bending the "Z" bend in the cable or cutting it.

The only option is to disconnect the four cables, both at the Heater Unit and at the Blower.

E

I posted a different thread on this - I've (finally) got my OEM radio in. I used the method described in this thread of removing the console and moving the fuse box - works fine.

However, to reinstall the radio face plate and ensure no further damage to my HCP (cracked be me in haste as noted earlier in this thread) I removed it with cables attached. I still have a bulge now that it's reinstalled, which may have been from the previous hasty effort to remove it without cable detachment.

Could I have "un-bent" (is that a word?) the Z-bend? For some reason a) the HCP has a bulge and the top slider is REALLLLLY stiff. I am sure I screwed something up.

Sorry for posting this on a separate thread, but it was consistent with the info here.

[rdefabri]

Figured it out - the slider assembly that attaches to the back of the HCP was bent slightly. Bent it back and it's now - no bulge!

[EScanlon]

Addendum:

Information not found in this article:

The 4 cables are connected 2 on the left side of the heater box itself, 1 on the right of the box to the water control valve and the last one, the longest goes to the fresh air flap which is behind the fan motor housing.

Take note that there are FOUR cables and THREE levers. One of the levers actuates TWO cables and that is the TOP lever. The other two levers are single cables.

The top lever controls

a) the fresh air vent that opens at the firewall vent valve behind the heater blower motor (the longest cable)

AND

the internal flap valve that ducts the air through the heater core OR straight through to the side and center vents in the dash. (the cable connected to the uppermost connection on the heater box on the left side)

(FYI: There is NO position for the heat to flow out of the side and center vents, you will only get fresh air ... or not.)

The middle lever controls the hot water valve. (right side of heater)

The bottom lever controls the two side doors on the heater box (left lower side of heater box). When the doors are shut the air is forced through to the defroster ducts, otherwise the air is allowed out to the "room".

Hope this helps

Enrique