woytovich Posted April 5, 2010 Share #1 Posted April 5, 2010 (edited) Well I'm finally getting to pull the front brakes apart on my recently acquired 71 240z. The rotors need to be replaced (or turned at least) as they are pretty rusty. The calipers need to be checked yet. I will probably replace the pads just because they have been sitting for 25 years untouched - they have plenty of thickness. Any comments on that part of the process are welcome as well but my primary concern here is the tie rods/ends and the ball joints. In the attached pictures the front suspension is just hanging as the car is supported from the center jack point. Are the tie rod ends trashed or do just look like this? To me they look like they should be pulled up tighter to the top. Same question for the ball joint... is it bad? The wheel bearings seem ok, I am not sure if I cam going to replace them... THANKS!!! Mark Edited April 5, 2010 by woytovich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenZZZ Posted April 5, 2010 Share #2 Posted April 5, 2010 Pivots at the bottom are ball joints. You need new ones and outer tie rods, possibly inner and outer tie rods. Replace the steering rack bellows (rubber covers) over the outer tie rods and regrease them. If there is any play, replace them. I'd replace the steering rack bushings while you are at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woytovich Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted April 5, 2010 Pivots at the bottom are ball joints. You need new ones and outer tie rods, possibly inner and outer tie rods. Replace the steering rack bellows (rubber covers) over the outer tie rods and regrease them. If there is any play, replace them. I'd replace the steering rack bushings while you are at it.Thanks...I just looked at the FSM...ball joints! I suspect you are on the right track... better safe than sorry in any case with this stuff...Any recommended parts source for this stuff? Nissan? NAPA?Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woytovich Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share #4 Posted April 5, 2010 So... 11, 8/9... yes? What else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenZZZ Posted April 5, 2010 Share #5 Posted April 5, 2010 Motorsport Auto is pretty good http://www.zcarparts.com/Consider replacing your tension rod bushings, control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings while you are in there. I like stock rubber, some like urethane which is harder/racier... Check for rust around the tension rod mount. Have that welded up if there is a problem. Lots of discussions on this board on these parts if you search for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenZZZ Posted April 5, 2010 Share #6 Posted April 5, 2010 Definitely replace 20. Motorsport has a nice aftermarket part which is inexpensive. If you need inner and outer tie rods (8 and 9) you can buy both at once which is the un-numbered part on the left. If the boot (aka bellows, 20) are okay, usually the inner tie rods are okay so you'll only need the outer tie rods. Replace the boot anyway. My car had 300K miles and I had to replace the pinion! Looking at your car, which was similar to mine, you will need to replace every piece of rubber at some point (motor mounts, tranny bushings, differential mount...) So...11, 8/9... yes? What else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woytovich Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted April 5, 2010 My car only has 91k on it BUT it was sitting in a garage for 25+ years... can you say "dry rot"?I want to everything here in the front that makes sense "while I have it apart".Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woytovich Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share #8 Posted April 5, 2010 Outer tie rod = 11 (and unnumbered passenger side (US) tie rod)?Inner tie rod = 8/9? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenZZZ Posted April 5, 2010 Share #9 Posted April 5, 2010 Yeah, I had it mixed up. You can buy both together (8+9+11) but you probably won't need the inners (8/9) if dirt didn't work its way into the joint. The inners are pretty beefy.Outer tie rod = 11 (and unnumbered passenger side (US) tie rod)?Inner tie rod = 8/9? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woytovich Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share #10 Posted April 5, 2010 I see OEM vs aftermarket ball joints are $118 vs $38. I don't want to be penny-wise and pound-foolish BUT that is a $160 difference... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woytovich Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share #11 Posted April 5, 2010 Ok... I'm hoping to do it "all" while I have this apart. I would LOVE to have a parts list for the necessary parts...Ball jointswheel bearingsall the rubber bits: sway bar bushings etc etc etc...(OEM? Aftermarket?)I would like to place 1 order and get it all... I DO NOT want to get halfway done and find I forgot to order some silly part and have to wait a week to get this thing buttoned up.Does anyone have a "kit" or list I can use as a starting point?Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenZZZ Posted April 5, 2010 Share #12 Posted April 5, 2010 I'd be comfortable with a Beck Arnley parts and they sell a ball joint (but I haven't used one)...http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-101-1089-Ball-Joint/dp/B000CB4VZM/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001Some aftermarket ball joints, the fit is poor and the dust covers melt for some odd reason. I think most of us buy the Nissan microfilm on CD from Courtesy Nissan and spend a 1/2 a day or so making a part list and figuring out where to buy them across Motorsport (aka ZCarParts), Black Dragon, Courtesy, and local part shops. For instance, I like the Autozone solid UJoints for $15 over the $65.00 greasable Spicers from Motorsport. You'll find lots of discussions if you search the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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