pad on Pad on top of the frame rail over the front wheel

[philbar73]

I have completely striped cleaned and painted the car. I'm starting to put it back together and need advice. There are some supports that are on top of the rails over the front wheels. They had some foam or something on them where they touch the inner fender, Any suggestions on what to put there for the rebuild will be helpful.

[Kathy & Rick]

It's hard to make a diagnosis when we don't know anything about the car,

such as model and year. If I assumed it to be a 240Z, 1969-73, I would

say that that "foam rubber stuff" was what was used as an anti-rattle

insulator between adjoining metal panels.

Unfortunately the insulator's principal function eventually proved to be a

trap for water and mud which then had no escape, thus contributing to

the infamous rust problem that early Z's experienced.

I've not heard of any solutions other than replacing panels or welding in

sheetmetal patches, so I will leave other recommendations to others who

know more about that than I do.

All Z Best,..................................Kathy & Rick

[cbudvet]

On my 1969-70 car, there was nothing along those areas to help with potential rattles. On my 71 parts car, it appeared to be a tar like substance. It was almost 1/8" thick. As posted above, the main concern is the potential to trap moisture and lead to a rust problem. I don't have a specific suggestion but I would look for something that is waterproof and tightly adhered to the underlying metal. You might check with a local body shop???? Good luck. Hopefully someone will have better advice.

carl

[ZCurves]

The body shop that did my paint used a type of expanding foam (I believe SEM) in each of those areas AFTER the fender was installed. There is only about 1 inch of space there so it only took a dollop the size of a quarter. The foam expands out to fill the void, no worries about denting or distorting the panel because the foam is not trapped and flows to the area of least resistance. The foam is not very dense and stays pliable after it is cured.

To address the rust issue, I made sure there was plenty of paint on both the Frame Rail and the inside of the Fender (-something that Nissan did NOT do, hence the rust issue :mad:.)

Anywho - I know that you can get the foam from most body shop supply stores, such as TASCO here in Houston. It comes in two sizes, small toothpaste size and a larger one that requires a separate gun.

[palosfv3]

This pic is posted on Philbar73 photo album. I'm assuming this is the area he is speaking about. It appears that the problem is a common Z car issue. You will need to make weld in a metal patch and a new reinforicing plate to the area.

[gnosez]

Okay, maybe I'm not understanding this correctly but there are a few stand-offs on the top of the inner wheel frame that had some sort of foam used to pad the frame from the fender. I used a section of 3/8 rubber cut to the correct size and glued them on. Then of course there is the inner fender/frame seal (NLA I believe) at the top, that weatherstripping can be used in a pinch.

[Mr Camouflage]

Okay, maybe I'm not understanding this correctly but there are a few stand-offs on the top of the inner wheel frame that had some sort of foam used to pad the frame from the fender. I used a section of 3/8 rubber cut to the correct size and glued them on. Then of course there is the inner fender/frame seal (NLA I believe) at the top, that weatherstripping can be used in a pinch.

I believe your right GNose. I think he's talking about the little fender perches that sit on top of the upper chassis , designed to give the fender a bit of support.

Here's a pic for the people that cant get their head around what he's talking about. Notice the 3 perches on top of the upper frame "air tube" above each wheel on either side.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32889

[Zs-ondabrain]

So are you looking to replace the foam?

If so, I went to the craft store and found one of those 1/2" thick foam soda can insulators, used to keep your drink cold in the summer.

It's a closed cell foam and won't retain water. Costs about $1.00, cut it into squares to sit on the perches, glue in place and instal the fender. You can see the yellow foam I used on mine in the picture below. These should also help for when you or others decide to Lean on the fender up top.

Edited April 7, 2010 by Zs-ondabrain

[EScanlon]

...To address the rust issue, I made sure there was plenty of paint on both the Frame Rail and the inside of the Fender (-something that Nissan did NOT do, hence the rust issue :mad:.)...

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3542

Extra thick paint isn't going to solve the cause of the rust problem.

It isn't lack of paint, it's that anything that falls INTO the cowl eventually gets flushed into this plenum where it gets caught between the fender and rocker panel. Whether it's leaves, dust, or whatever, it eventually becomes a "sponge" holding the moisture against the metal. One tiny little hole is all it takes for the rust to begin.

The link above is what I did to extend the cowl drain OUT of the plenum and hence OUT of the car.

E

[philbar73]

Thanks guys,

I was asking about the foam on the top of the frame to support the top of the inner fender. A friend of mine from a body shop suggested a dollop of seam sealer on the supports. He said it will not hold water and in will harden enough to give good support but will not damage anything. I’m not sure I want to glue the frame to the fender as he suggests. The other side of that is he has been a body man for 35 years so his advice is most likely sound. He’s a good man. I cut and fit metal for around the rear fender lip on the driver’s side the front of both rockers and fit new floor boards and he welded them in a few hours. I’m very lucky to have a friend that has been welding for 35 years.

The drain tubes look like a great idea. I don’t understand where they come out on the bottom. Did you have to cut away metal to make a exit point for the hose or are they coming out where the little flaps are in the wheel well? I had to replace the first 6 inches on the rockers because of the trapped dirt causing the metal to rot. If I could keep the junk out of that spot it would be great. I had thought of using thumb screws on the bottom of the fender so I could keep it clean but the extension tube are interesting.

Thanks, it nice to talk to you.

Phil

[ZCurves]

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3542

Extra thick paint isn't going to solve the cause of the rust problem.

It isn't lack of paint, it's that anything that falls INTO the cowl eventually gets flushed into this plenum where it gets caught between the fender and rocker panel. Whether it's leaves, dust, or whatever, it eventually becomes a "sponge" holding the moisture against the metal. One tiny little hole is all it takes for the rust to begin.

The link above is what I did to extend the cowl drain OUT of the plenum and hence OUT of the car.

E

You are correct about the lower part of the fender, but if you observe the upper frame area after you remove your fenders - you'll see yellowish primer, that is all. It was the same for the lower frame rail which allowed corrosion to begin between the fender and rocker panel when debris began to accumulate . I have to say that your solution is pretty clever though! "Necessity is the mother of invention"