Topic says it. I can rev the he** out of the engine when warm and idling but if i put gear on and release clutch, it barely moves and dies almost instant. I got to have at least 3K rpms to move it a bit..

need help quick!

Edit: i probably posted this on the wrong place. Can it be rear brakes that cause this? They are totally stuck.

Edited April 8, 201014 yr by Reverend

I'd have to say you sorted it out right there-you're stalling the engine every time...

Have you any thoughts as to why the rear drums are stuck?

Does the car roll when in neutral? If so it's not the brakes. More likely its a timing issue (vacuum advance or ignition timing).

I had a similar problem when I first fired up the car this year. First thing was that I had 2 plugs completely fouled (the two middle ones, 3-4). Then I had to advance the distributor as far is it would go before I had any power off idle. I think my vacuum advance plate and/or vacuum diaphragm is shot. Anyways, try advancing the dizzy and see if it gives you more go out of the hole. Just like you said, my car would just die without enough advance when trying to roll off the clutch. I think you have an advance issue.

Topic says it. I can rev the he** out of the engine when warm and idling but if i put gear on and release clutch, it barely moves and dies almost instant. I got to have at least 3K rpms to move it a bit..

need help quick!

Edit: i probably posted this on the wrong place. Can it be rear brakes that cause this? They are totally stuck.

If your rear brakes are locked up. This certainly could cause what your are describing. My friend has a 240 with this vary problem. The z set in a vary damp and sometimes wet enclosure for a couple of years with the E-brake set and now he brake shoes are rusted to the drums.

Yes rear brakes were stuck. But now to the carbs: After running warm and shutting it down, engine pops and rumble for few seconds and then it puffs white-blue smoke from carbs..! This happen almost every time.

Also the vacuum is greater in front carb. How can i adjust that?

Thanks already

Search for a link to the factory service manual, it has brief instructions on how to balance your carbs. There's throttle air screws on each one, plus a balance screw. Without a flow meter you'll never get it dead on, but you can try playing with it.

Again, I think running on after turning off the ignition ("dieseling") is a timing issue.

Edited April 9, 201014 yr by Z-Luke

It could vary well be carbon build up and or bad gas. Or timing as you said. But with the carbs out of tune... I lean more toward the carbon. Sort of a non issue if you cannot drive the car. I think I would tackle this issue first.

Gazza

Sounds like it's running way too lean, will it run better with the choke on ? Years ago I got a smog check and the exact same thing happened, car passed smog but would not move so I richened it up back to where it was and no problem.

Well it runs good with choke on and good without choke when warm. Idle is steady and i can rev it good. Only problem (is it?) vacuum difference and puffing smoke after shutdown. That scares me a little. You can hear loud SWOOSH when it puffs that smoke. I'll buy some higher octane gasoline and see if that helps..