Fuel tank patch??

[justaZcarguy]

Hello All,

FIRST let me say this is a temporary fix until I can hibernate the Z in the garage to pull the tank and fix it right and do the return hoses as well, presently they are not leaking, but we all know it's a matter o' time.

That being said, who has had luck with patching a tank with something like JB Weld? It appears that a small pebble has gotten between the strap and tank (I can't figure out how either) and yesterday when I filled it, I think the extra weight worked a small hole into the tank. I plan on removing the strap, and yes, with the tank supported as Kmack and EScanlon already know about... (Sorry guys...)

Once while out on a hill climb in a '72 4X4 Blazer I poked a small hole in the tank during a climb and I used JB Kwik and it still is working today and that was three years ago...

I was wondering if there is something someone else has used and had luck with...

Keep in mind this is a small pinhole and not leaking too badly, but I bet that will change once I remove the small intruder.

Thanks fellow Zpeople, have a great day!!

~Brian

[EScanlon]

As you did with the other vehicle you can do temporary repairs that are good enough that they last for years.

The problem with that, is that they make you overconfident on their TRUE capabilities and before you know it, you're using it for bigger and more hazardous repairs.

A pinhole? Sure, JB in either of it's formulations will do the job. So will several other epoxy type repair compounds. However I wouldn't use it if it compromised the strength of the item involved.

Since you are obviously looking for the least invasive method of repairing, I would first DRAIN the gas tank. Afterwards check the other strap and ensure it's snug and sound. Then I would remove the strap that's covering the hole.

Once the strap is out of the way, I would very VERY carefully scuff the area surrounding the hole after having ensured that, as you stated, that it is in fact a foreign object puncture and NOT a rust through. If it's a rust through, find a new tank.

In scuffing, DO NOT USE A GRINDER or anything that can throw off a spark. (This should be an oxymoron statement, but sadly as too many people know, it isn't.)

Once you've scuffed the area as clean as you can, get a small piece of inner tube rubber that is at least an inch or so in diameter. (Again, this is presuming a PINHOLE.) Mix your JB, apply and then cover with the inner tube patch.

This way when you replace the strap you won't be exposing the JB to direct contact with the strap which could chafe or vibrate it loose.

The POR 15 folks have a tank sealing kit which will do a good job, coupled with their regular POR for the exterior and a dab of their fibreglass cloth, I wouldn't hesitate to use that for small pinholes.

Their epoxy is also strong enough to handle that.

One last note, when you replace your strap, make sure that it doesn't have any kinks or bends on the surfaces where it contacts the tank, as well as the rubber / canvas padding being there and in place.

By the way, I'm not sure what you were referring to with your reference to the tank support.

Enrique

[Graeme Suckling]

I have performed some repair work and inserted a surge tank to my '73 Z tank quite safely using a large soldering iron.

Mind you the tank was empty and on the bench.

After screwing the plate with surge tank back onto the tank with small zinc plated self tapping screws, I tinned the perimeter of the patch and soldered it with plumbers solder and a large copper solder tip.

This was heated at a remote location to avoid the need for hospitalisation of the operator.

If you have a high wattage plumbers Electric iron this would be the go.

You can also set up a blower i.e. a vacuum cleaner on blow, to fill and continuosly flush the tank with clean fresh air to ensure the fuel fumes go elsewhere and don't hang around under your nose.

DO NOT USE A NAKED FLAME

My suggestion is to dimple in the area of the leak to a few mm, with a punch or ball pein hammer.

Then clean, tin and fill the dimple with solder to bring it back to the same level as the surrounding metal.

A radiator shop would probably do something very similar so I don't see a problem with this method.

Don't use electrical solder (60:40) it is too soft, use plumbers solder.

[justaZcarguy]

Morning!

Enrique, I was referring to a post you did back in Jan where you said not to ask about the garage carpet smelling like gas...

Which by the way. I now have the same problem.

I discovered that it was not the pebble after all, but a hose at the top of the tank, figures, the way it pooled around the strap was a bit misleading...

Thanks for the advice all, it was all great and I will use it!

By the way Enrique, howz the roadster??????

Have a great Tuesday...

~Brian

[EScanlon]

Talk about things I'd rather forget.......

By the way Brian, is it truly a rubber hose OR one of the smaller fuel supply and return lines by the sending unit.

This is important as I can help you out with the repair very easily.

If it's the rubber vent lines, don't skimp and do JUST the one that is leaking, get them all done.

While you're at it, check your filler neck. Although this is an expensive part (~$90) it is a critical part.

Enrique