How important are the floats in the brake master cylinder reservoirs? Actually, from what i've seen in diagrams, there are whole pieces of my m/c gone- the filters, etc under the caps. The remaining black rubber float looks like a burned up marshmallow. If I can just take it out and feel like I don't have anything to stress out about these parts not being there, i'd be stoked. Flushing it all out and bleeding tomorrow to see if we can get away with that rather than install a new m/c, but have a brand new one (sans soft parts and reservoirs) ready to go if necessary. The one on it doesn't look too bad but, of course, hard to tell by looking how well it's working.

Oh yeah found paperwork in the car and the last time it was insured was 2006, so I'm assuming the thing sat up in Chiloquin in someone's yard for at least 3.5 years before it made its way to the junkyard.

Edited April 24, 201014 yr by prilofx

Chances are good the MC seals are shot too if the lid rubber is shot. I am not sure why this happens to some people. I bought my car after is sat for 19 years and the lid rubber was fine. I am going to attribute it to the brand/type of fluid the PO used.

Back to your question, I think that you can remove them and run it but I think you run the risk of humidity contaminating the fluid, fluid leaking from the reserviors during rough driving conditions and hard turning and possibly air getting into the system.

I'd sell the new barebones one you've got and buy a complete new one with reserviors and caps. I think I saw them at napa.com as a special order item for about 60 bucks complete with caps and tanks.

Just my 2 cents worth.

John

If any of the visible rubber on the M/C is suspect, replace the whole unit. Chances are that the internal seals are in the same condition. Check the clutch cylinder, too, if you haven't already done so. Cheap and easy to replace on your terms, but a real pain and danger when they go out unexpectedly.

Dennis

Thanks guys- the mc I had ordered doesn't have the reservoirs so I'm returning it and buying the one through NAPA today. While there I'll probably order the clutch one, also. That's something we intended to anyway. man, this is gonna be some slow going on this thing. ha!

I'm just going on the assumption that just about everything in the engine with rubber on it is going to be replaced.

Edited April 24, 201014 yr by prilofx

I'm just going on the assumption that just about everything in the engine with rubber on it is going to be replaced.

I agree that will be a fair assumption. Prolly starting with all of those firewall boots.

Thanks for the description of the stuff in the M/C - so THAT's what was in mine:stupid:

Get the clutch slave cylinder or rebuild kit while at napa. You will need it too. Rebuild kit about 6 bucks. Takes about 20 minutes to do if you bead blast it, about 15 if you dont.

John