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Gas tank restoration


Mike

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Found out that Nissan does NOT make gas tanks for the early Z-cars anymore. On discussion with some of the restoration specialists at the Z-Store, I found out a way to make my existing gas tank like new. It's a four step process:

Boil the tank. Have it cleaned up inside and out. You can take it down to your local engine or radiator specialist to get this done. They will hot or cold dip it in acid to eat off all of the grime.

Sandblast the tank. This can be done by the powder-coat specialist. Or, feel free to do it yourself if you have a sandblasting attachment for your air-equipment.

Powder-coat the outside. Take the tank to your local (or maybe not so local) powder-coating specialist. Have them powder-coat the entire tank (outside only) in your favorite color. Also be sure to tell them that the thank has been dipped and stripped. Since the powder-coating process involves baking in an oven, some specialists get nervous about gas tanks. Gee, I wonder why?!!? :-)

Seal the inside. Take the tank back to the radiator shop and have them seal the tank internally. This *MUST* be done after the powder-coat process. Since powder-coating involves high heat, a pre-sealed tank will be ruined from the heat. I guess the sealant bubbles on the inside.

Now, I'm not sure if you can seal the outside of the tank after the powder coating has been applied or not. I wouldn't think it will hurt the powder coating to do this. Anyway, thanks to the anonymous donor for this information. I would publish the donors name, but, he probably doesn't want everyone calling him.

I also saw a very nice article in the Z-Car Magazine about how to do this step by step. Check out their web site and get your own subscription for these kinds of tips. You can also order back-copies.

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  • 5 years later...

This is an old topic, but the Mikes point about no more gas tanks is important- plus gas tanks from VB or MSA cost upward of $600!

My local rad guy tells my they can't boil tanks clean any more. They cut big holes to get a sand blaster gun in, then blast, repair weak spots, and weld the holes closed, then seal.

Doiesn't sound like the best think to do to a (collectable) car. what else is there to clean the inside?

thx

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hi was looking at the por15 products (sold by Permanent Paint coatings PPC over here) the other day heard u guys from Usa talk about it so looked into it over here in there catalogue they list a fuel tank sealer kit which i think (dont have articile) with me now a cleaner and sealer for inside fuel tanks might be worth a look

Mick

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I've been thinking about doing this myself. Here's some info from the POR-15 web page:

<A href=http://www.por15store.com/POR-15-Tank-Sealer.html>Product info</A>

<A href=http://www.por15store.com/POR-15-Tank-Sealer-Instructions.html>Instructions</A>

<A href=http://www.por15store.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TSS&Category_Code=Specials>Special offer</A> Maybe the pint will do? It says up to 14 gallons ...

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If your tank is rusted badly inside you may have no choice but to have the tank opened up to treat it. It can be very difficult to reach all area's inside a tank to remove the rust without cutting holes in it. In short, you do what you have to do to restore your tank to a structually sound condition since new tanks are not available, and used ones in decent condition can be hard to find.

Thanks to a poor repair contracted by the (original) P.O., my cars tank had to have two holes cut into it to allow access to all the rusted areas. After the rust was removed, the openings were sealed by patches riveted in place , then silver-soldered, and finally the tank was sealed. a 3 year warrenty was given by the shop (this was almost 6 years ago) and I have not had a single problem, or sign of any rust in the fuel filters since the repair.

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After a little Googling, I noticed a link for a placed that would to the job for $290 with a lifetime guarantee/warantee. You send them your tank, they fix it and send it back.

I was thinking... would it bee or look so bad to have tour tank cut in half at the seam with a good plasma cutter, then treated and welded back togeter? That way the weld should be less noticeable than a "patch."

thx

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If Moyer's does every job like the photo's on their web site then it looks to me like you wouldn't notice the patches. It looks like they do a very nice/professional job. Again I am just saving up to send my extra tank to them first and then swap out tanks and get the second one done and maybe sell it when I am finished with that part of the car. If anyone missed the link to Moyer's it is: http://www.gas-tank.com/

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I've looked at Moyer's as well and they certainly look good. I'm a little concerned about shipping an empty tank. Their instructions say to just empty the tank, put it in a plastic trash bag, seal it up with tape, and ship it to them in a cardboard box.

The first thing they do when your tank arrives is put it in an oven to remove the gas fumes. I know for a fact that whenever I take a small box to the post office they now have to ask if there's anything hazardous inside. I wonder what the response would be if you said you're shipping the equivalent of a fuel/air explosive? From the USPS hazardous materials sheet:

Gasoline (UN1203) is a flammable liquid that normally has a flashpoint

of –50° F. Gasoline is nonmailable under any circumstances.

I would expect that UPS, FedEx, etc. would have similar requirements.

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I've posted before with my expirences with Gas Tank ReNu. Can't say enough. They do a great job and really do stand up to their lifetime warrenty. Any tank with a Tank ReNu tag is covered no matter what the circumstances of how you got it.

http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm

Just to add, "Moyers" is one of the Gas Tank ReNu dealers there are others and may be one near you. However, Moyers seems to be the only one doing this via shipping. I have to agree that shipping and "Empty" gas tank is VERRRRY close to shipping a bomb.

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