POR 15 application in framerails

[EScanlon]

Unless you are planning on throwing away your pressure sprayer, DON'T use it for POR.

The amount of cleanup required afterwards will not only drive you batty, it will be next to impossible to thoroughly clean it and, believe me, if you do NOT get rid of all the POR inside, it will be unuseable next time. The POR sets HARD AS A ROCK, and this is no understatement. If it's inside the sprayer valves or passages even in minute amounts AND you let it set.... it's trash.

The syphon spray guns I posted, limit the path of the POR to the PVC tube and the very tip of the blower. Yes, they're a bit messier and less "refined", but the main advantage is the minimum amount of disassembly and clean up required. The PVC tubing is cheap enough to replace (about 15¢/ft), without worrying about clean up, and the tip need only be immersed in lacquer thinner and then brushed out to be serviceable again. The only important note is to add a weight to the end of the PVC tubing to keep it at the bottom of the POR can.

If you need to address tight spaces or deep into crannies, etc, you can obtain the type of spray gun that has the extended nozzle tip. Even with the long nozzle, it's simple clean up.

FWIW

E

Edited May 9, 2010 by EScanlon

[yetterben]

Spraying por15 should not be taken lightly on the safety/hazard side. You will die fast if proper measures are not taken. This is of course is threw a spray/gun setup.

[beandip]

Unless you are planning on throwing away your pressure sprayer, DON'T use it for POR.

The amount of cleanup required afterwards will not only drive you batty, it will be next to impossible to thoroughly clean it and, believe me, if you do NOT get rid of all the POR inside, it will be unuseable next time. The POR sets HARD AS A ROCK, and this is no understatement. If it's inside the sprayer valves or passages even in minute amounts AND you let it set.... it's trash.

The syphon spray guns I posted, limit the path of the POR to the PVC tube and the very tip of the blower. Yes, they're a bit messier and less "refined", but the main advantage is the minimum amount of disassembly and clean up required. The PVC tubing is cheap enough to replace (about 15¢/ft), without worrying about clean up, and the tip need only be immersed in lacquer thinner and then brushed out to be serviceable again. The only important note is to add a weight to the end of the PVC tubing to keep it at the bottom of the POR can.

If you need to address tight spaces or deep into crannies, etc, you can obtain the type of spray gun that has the extended nozzle tip. Even with the long nozzle, it's simple clean up.

FWIW

E

I agree totally with Scanlon. One thing to stress, use rubber gloves and long sleeved shirts when doing this. Also have some lacquer thinner close at hand , just encase you happen to get some on your skin. POR will begin to cure on you skin almost immediately , so if you wait for a few minutes to remove it , you may find you will have two options. Sand paper or just wait until it wears off.

The siphon gun Scanlon posted is exactly the one I use . I tied a 2 oz. fishing weight to the hose so the tubeing stays in the paint can. No need to thin the paint. You need to use the cleaning and preparation as directed by the paint Co. and be absolutely sure there is NO moisture in or on the metal that is to be coated. Moisture will cause the POR paint to foam and this will leave voids that moisture can travel. When properly applied and cured , I know of no better product for protecting metal from rust. This stuff is hard and at the same time flexible. It penetrates into the voids and seals. I have no dog in the fight here . Just a vary satisfied user of the product.

Be sure to use in a well vented area ! This stuff has some nasty chemicals in it. Especially when spraying it on. Gary

[hls30.com]

Before spraying Any sealing coating in the frame rails, I would spray them with degreaser, rinse thoroughly, let dry, and then acid etch them, rinse with laquer thinner, allow to dry and then top coat.

Por is ment to apply over rust, but there are directions for use for a reason...

Unless your frame rails have been sealed, the tops open into the engine compartment, and everything released in it will ultimately make its way into them-in 30 to 40 years years worth of cleanings, detailing, etc lots of different chemicals have fallen through the cracks...

E's method woks very well-for all things applied to the inside of frame rails.

[jmortensen]

POR is for Paint Over Rust, but if you can't encapsulate the joint in its entirety (meaning all the way between the panels), I think it's a bad idea to use it in the frame rails. Even if you seal both sides of the joint with the POR, it has to maintain an airtight seal to stop the rust. Putting stress on the frame rails or hitting something might again expose the joint to air and allow the rust to continue to grow.

I did try to use Zero Rust inside my frame rails before I found the oiling method and I found it damn near impossible to get anything other than splatter out of the end of the wand, I certainly didn't get the "fan" of paint that you would from a HVLP gun, as I had imagined. After giving up on that method, I found a link to Krown oil somewhere or other. I like the oil method because it is "self healing" and you can reapply as many times as you want or as often as you want without a whole lot of hassle.

Edited May 10, 2010 by jmortensen

[240znz]

Hey Brent,

It would be very difficult to get good coverage of POR15 inside the frame rails. As others have said, there will be all sorts of crap in there. While POR15 is a fantasic product, I don't think it is the choice for this application.

My car has had carefully placed 20mm holes drilled through into the frame cavity from the foot wells. This gives excellent access to the inner frame rail. The panel shop that did the work had a purpose build 1.5metre long flexible spray nozzle that fitted onto a standard spray gun. I filled it will fisholine and did the rails and the entire car. Fish oil dripped everywhere for days (yes days). It got everywhere. You can get low odour stuff now so it doesn't stink too much. It semi dries to a tacky state. I'l planning on doing the frame rails every 5 years to minimise the inside out rust monster.

Just a suggestion.

Cheers

James

[GreenZZZ]

This is what I ended up doing in my frame rails throughout the car. Should have done it before the LizardSkin went on...