sourcing electrical upgrade parts

[Zs-ondabrain]

It's actually pretty simple.

My kit includes a new fused power wire that goes from the battery to the steering column.

A relay is bolted to the underside of the column and #86 is grounded there.

The green/white parking light output wire is tapped via a "T" connector.

The switch side of that wire goes into #85

#30 from the relay goes to the other side of that wire (toward the dash- output)

The fused power wire goes into the relays #87

So the switch now operates the relay, the relay is powered from the battery, the relay is controlled by a simple ground and the switch supplies the activation power. Simple.

If you wanna do your own, just use a test light and find the green/blue (from the fusebox into the switch) and the green/white out of the switch to the lights.

Dave

Edited May 20, 2010 by Zs-ondabrain

[SteveJ]

As happens so often, Dave beat me to the answer. I was going to propose something similar. I was looking at the wiring diagram this morning, but I didn't have a chance to write something up before I had to leave to catch a plane. Actually, that gets me thinking that I could do something like that with the connectors I purchased from Vintage Connections.

Thanks for the inspiration, Mike.

[Mikez73]

No problem Steve but Dave was the inspiration and both of you have been a big help. Group hug:pirate:

I've got everything hooked up but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. If I had worked smarter and spent a little more money I'd be done now and I'd be back to the ignition and carbs. The ignition I'm not worried about but I may just be stalling on the carbs :paranoid:

[Mikez73]

Yes!!! It works. I probably sound a little surprised

I was a little wary when I turned the lights on...halfway expecting smoke and the smell of plastic burning. At first the left headlight wasn't working and I figured there was a mistake somewhere. I unplugged the connector and cleaned the blades and tried it again and everything works. Still needs a little neatening up but the lights work and the fans work and there's no smoke so I'll call it a success for now. I didn't have time to take pics but I'll post some tomorrow. Thanks again to Steve, Dave and everyone that helped.

I got my grill and airdam back on too but then I had to quit and go cut the grass. Need headlights on the lawnmower:pirate:

[Mikez73]

I don't like the way the relays are mounted but they are mounted and they work and that's god for now.

[Mikez73]

It's actually pretty simple.

My kit includes a new fused power wire that goes from the battery to the steering column.

A relay is bolted to the underside of the column and #86 is grounded there.

The green/white parking light output wire is tapped via a "T" connector.

The switch side of that wire goes into #85

#30 from the relay goes to the other side of that wire (toward the dash- output)

The fused power wire goes into the relays #87

So the switch now operates the relay, the relay is powered from the battery, the relay is controlled by a simple ground and the switch supplies the activation power. Simple.

If you wanna do your own, just use a test light and find the green/blue (from the fusebox into the switch) and the green/white out of the switch to the lights.

Dave

I can't find a green/blue. And I'm not even surprised by this

[Zs-ondabrain]

It's on the combo switch and you can follow it to the connector (5" away)

There's a green/white and a green/blue on the switch. You'll also find those wires at the connector. Find the one that always has power, then ignore it. Then find the other that tests (+) when you turn on the parking lights. That wire, from the switch, goes to the relay to turn it on. Then the output (#30) goes back to the wire heading away from the switch.

Confused yet?

Dave

[madkaw]

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

This is a pretty good site for the DIYer. I think the schematic is easy to understand and he is helpful with any questions.

I also decide to go with a ganged 6 circuit fuse block from these folks

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html

later on if I want to wire in a electric fan, I will have some extra circuits. It comes with a #8 stranded power wire that is 12" long so you can place the box whereever. I will wire the relays close to it for the headlights.(Once I get thru wiring hell in trying to remember where everything goes on my harness-I can't even get my dash lights to work yet:stupid:)

[Mikez73]

It's on the combo switch and you can follow it to the connector (5" away)

There's a green/white and a green/blue on the switch. You'll also find those wires at the connector. Find the one that always has power, then ignore it. Then find the other that tests (+) when you turn on the parking lights. That wire, from the switch, goes to the relay to turn it on. Then the output (#30) goes back to the wire heading away from the switch.

Confused yet?

Dave

No, I'm with you. Your instructions were good...I just can't find a g/l wire. I looked at the FSM schematic and I traced out it's path but I can't find it at the switch or the fuse block. I'll look again today.

madkaw...I've wired up dual fans. I even used some of my weather pack stash left over from my shiro. A fuse block and a relay block would tidy the wiring up though.

I'm not a believer in the "e-fans free up HP" theory so I may go back to the mechanical fan at some point.

[Mikez73]

Mike, one or two pics would have been enough, let's take the last one.

You have the fuel pump harness, the relay at the bottom left is what is activated by your starter and altenator, that relay activates the relay at the buttom right, the one with green and black wires.

If you take off the 4 wire plug fron the relay at the left and make a jumper and connect two of the wires (can't remember the colors) your fuel pump should run of the original harness, the black/white goes to your starter, if you find the wire gong to your altenator and leave that out, you should jump the two last, hope it makes sence.

Chris

Ok I did some more reading on that supplement and peeled the tape off the harness and you were pretty much right on. Maybe Nissan jumped the gun on my 2/73 or the original owner had a dealer install the "upgrades".

The problem is that this circuit isn't connected to my fuel pump but it does prevent the starter from cranking if the b/y wire is removed from the solenoid.

In the first pic you can see where the b/y (b/faded-white?) wire from the solenoid goes to a green multi-connector and the b/y goes to the relay you pointed out. You can also see the blue tap that the PO used to get 12v to the fuel pump. It's on a b/w wire from the white connector.

In the second pic you see a green wire from relay B and a green wire from the 4 pin plug that feeds relay A go to two 2 pin plugs with a b/w jumper wire. Those wires are very long. You can see part of them coiled up and zip-tied to relay B in the first pic.

[Mikez73]

In my efforts to improve my car I've somehow managed to make it worse.

Before I removed the electric fuel pump (and maybe before the 280zx alternator) I had finally managed to get spark in my ignition system. Now that I have the mechanical fuel pump in and I'm ready to start it up...I don't have power to the coil anymore.

[Mikez73]

I noticed today that my turn signals no longer work. I checked the fuse and it was burnt out. I replaced the fuse. As soon as I turned the key to "on" the new fuse burned out. In the upgrades I've been working on I haven't touched this circuit but apparently I've screwed it up somehow. The emergency lights still work.

Since the fuse burned out when I turned the key on, I think this may have something to do with the car not getting power to the coil wire.