sourcing electrical upgrade parts

[beandip]

For what it's worth, I also installed Dave's head light upgrade way back when he first built them about '03 or '04. Top quality. I also am using the tail light upgrade as well. And for that matter the connectors that cause the front marker lights to blink along with the turn signals. Again I recommend all of his offerings. I put my starter on a relay which is vary simple, and this is vary much worth the effort.

Any time I can take the load off of the aging original harness I do so.

I just remembered I also used Dave's adapter for a internal regulated Alternator.

If I thought for second that his upgraded harness were not of high quality and trouble free, I wouldn't have them on my Z.

My 2 cts. Gary:)

[Mikez73]

Checking over the starter relay wiring I found that the terminal on the starter solenoid has a two prong connector. The black/yellow wire from the ignition is connected there but also a thick black wire is connected as well. None of the writeups mention this wire and I don't see it in the 1973 wiring schematic. Any ideas before I start trying to trace this unexpected wire are appreciated

[Zs-ondabrain]

Got me there. Never heard of a thick black on the same terminal for starting the car.

Are ya feeling like a pin cushion yet? Everyones poking with "Dave Upgrades" As humbled as I am with all the great speeches on or about my upgrades, I totally understand where you're coming from. I too, am obviously a DIY'r. It started with my First Datsun (78' 510 2-door hatchback) from hell. Many electrical isues that just needed some TLC and a few relays. It got real bad when I got my first 240Z back in 02'.

Because I order on a grand scale, I get my relays (SPDT) for less than $2.00 each and single relay sockets for less than $1.00. and I think my dual relay sockets are about $1.50 each.

I use 2 relays on the headlight upgrade harness because almost every car in the world has Hi beam and Low beam. As for the parking lights, I highly suggest you relay them near the switch. Most 240Z's fuseboxs melt due to the 15 amps going thru there on a constand basis. The combo switches also like to fail for the same reason. Reducing the amperage from 15 amps, down to 0.30 amps significantly increases the life of the switch, fusebox, wires and connectors.

I would suggest you follow that thick black on the starter solenoid and tell us what you find.

Dave

[SteveJ]

Mike/Dave,

I looked at my 73. I think Mike is describing the fusible link.

Steve

[Zs-ondabrain]

Well yah, the fuseable link is on the main power bolt of the starter, but it sounded like he was describing a double prong connector on the solenoid, where the black/yellow connects.

Mike, Is the black wire that's in question, on the same bolt as the battery cable, on the solenoid? If it is, then it's a fusable link. It runs from there to the fusebox and ignition.

[Mikez73]

Thanks for chiming in on this Dave. I used to make a few parts in the z31 world so I can relate. I'm on a really tight budget with this car or I'd seriously consider buying your harness.

The reason I asked about two relays is because I drove z31's for years and I only remember having one head light relay. I never had to replace a relay in 10+ years driving z31's so I could be wrong. Or maybe it used a stdp relay.

Mike/Dave,

I looked at my 73. I think Mike is describing the fusible link.

Steve

I'm hurt by that

This is definitely a wire, not a fusible link. It runs back to the main harness so it's going to be a pain to trace it down.

I would suggest you follow that thick black on the starter solenoid and tell us what you find.

Thanks a lot Dave

There is a dual male spade on the solenoid terminal. A picture is worth...

[SteveJ]

I'm at a loss, Mike. It doesn't look anything like my 240Z. I'll do some looking around tonight if I have the chance.

[Zs-ondabrain]

It's an add on of some sort. Follow it. The Vinyl sleeved wire is stock, or looks that way, so I would follow the striped wire and see where it goes.

Just me take on it.

Dave

[ChrisZ]

It is to activate your fuel pump while cranking, after that the altenator takes over, so the fuel pump will not run unless the engine does.

Chris

[Zs-ondabrain]

See there, That totally makes sense. If I would have really thought about it, I might have come to that conclusion.

Good show mate,

Dave

[ChrisZ]

Tell me how i know, just spend a shite load of time, chasing bugs, my fuel pump didn't work, it turned out to be the relay, ive read they are NLA, can anyone confirm that, i'm thinking about a solution that involves taking a mini relay and implant it inside the old relay, that is if i cant get a new.

Chris

[GreenZZZ]

I checked out the kit that Dave makes and it looks great but...I'm a DIY kinda guy.

I totally understand where you're coming from. I too, am obviously a DIY'r.

And you wrote docs too! Not sure if this is the latest docs.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19934

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20016