Hi, i need ideas on how to remove the break cylinder and how to put it back in and bleed it.

my break cylinder on my 76 280z is bad and my front left wheel and rear right wheel are lock tight.

is there any problem if i just change the cylinder and leave the old booster?

guide/steps and pictures pls.

Edited May 3, 201014 yr by rzkas

I assume you are referring to the 'Brake' cylinder. I typed it into the 'Search' section. Got 4 pages of posts. Now you try it.

If you don't want to do a search, purchase or download a repair manual or FSM. All I needed to know to do the job was in there. Don't forget your flair nut wrenches.

left front and right rear are locked? I am thinking you might have another problem, maybe crap in the lines?

Have you cracked the bleeders to see if you have any fluid moving?

Cracked the bleeders? I'm sure he hasn't a clue what you mean.!!! Do you mean ---Try loosening the bleed nipples located on each brake cylinder .

Thought the master on my 240 was bad, so we ordered one but in the meantime, for giggles and stuff, we bled and flushed the system at the wheel cylinders and pistons. Turns out the thing was mostly full of air with a little bit of burned up fluid one might have considered brake fluid at some point in the distant past. Tried that?

Cracking bleeders, breaking cylinders. Sounds expensive

Hi, i need ideas on how to remove the break cylinder and how to put it back in and bleed it.

my break cylinder on my 76 280z is bad and my front left wheel and rear right wheel are lock tight.

is there any problem if i just change the cylinder and leave the old booster?

guide/steps and pictures pls.

The master cylinder only pushes the pads on to the discs and the shoes on to the drums. It doesn't do any retracting or pulling back, so wouldn't be the cause of your wheels being locked.

You should take the front wheel off and see if you can pry the pads and pistons back in to the caliper to get the wheel to turn. You might need new calipers or a rebuild. It sounds like the pistons have rusted/corroded in the bores.

Same thing on the back. Take the wheel off and see if you can remove the drum. You will probably have to loosen the adjusting wheel inside, using a screwdriver through the adjustment hole. They tend to be very difficult to remove once they get stuck.

Thanks for all the ideas. i will try them this week.