Auxiliary air valve?

[Zed Head]

Great, thank you.

I tried Google on Bosch #0 280 140 124. Nothing came up.

Where did you get yours from?

O'Reilly's aka Schucks aka CSK Auto calls it an Idle Air Control Valve for search purposes then calls it an Auxiliary Air Valve in the description. I used 1981 BMW 528i as the car model per sblake01's post. Nothing comes up for 280Z.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Idle+Air+Control+Valve/02169/C0018.oap?keyword=air+valve&year=1981&make=BMW&model=528I&vi=1012217

I could have saved $10! I bought mine from MSA.

Should have noticed, but that post is pretty old isn't it? Guess I'll leave this here anyway...

Edited June 23, 2010 by Zed Head

[FastWoman]

Resurrecting this thread...

I have a spare AAR from an '81 ZX, JECS part A32-601460, with a "233" stamped below that number. Is that compatible with a '78 280? The thing looks almost completely identical. It's got a 70 ohm heater.

[Willoughby Z]

Sarah, if he doesn't accept your kind offer, I would be interested, assuming it's compatible with a '77. Some time back, I posted a "what goes here.." kind of post and everyone correctly IDed the AAR was missing. Recently found the old one in a box from the PO, even with fitting, hoses and clamps!. The connector turns and pulls out with the bi-metal strip, probably toast. Gets cold enough on the Bay in winter, I think I would prefer a nice idle on cold days...

If I can refurb mine later, I'll pay it forward to someone in need... :bulb:

[FastWoman]

Willoughby... Oh, no! I gave the wrong impression! :stupid: My original one is sticking, so I'm planning on replacing it with my spare from the '81, if it's compatible. The ZX AAR is in much better condition.

As far as I can tell, it's the same doodad as the one on my '78. I went ahead and tested it, cleaned it up, and painted it. Unless someone tells me, "No, you don't want THAT AAR on your '78," I think I'll go ahead and install it when I'm replacing my fuel pump.

Anyway, my old one sticks, but the heating element is intact. Maybe it just needs some cleaning out. If the ZX AAR works for me, I'd be happy to adopt out my original one to you, if you think you can clean it up. I'd ordinarily keep it as a spare, but you need it more than I do!

[Willoughby Z]

My goof, I have plenty of time to R&R my garage find. with yours, maybe the sticking comes from the metal strip inside. Because the connector rotates and can even be pulled off, I can see the end of the rectangular bi-metal strip travels in an arc in a perpendicular rectangular channel in the body. The coil around the bi-metal and the chamber was sooty/varnished. If your connector is tight to the body, then it's probably not sticking mechanically (rubbing in the channel), maybe a good soak would fix it...

Nice of you to offer!

So the fuel pump was the gremlin to your "Easter on I64" adventure?

[FastWoman]

Hi Willoughby,

Yes, the pump was the gremlin. It was a sneaky gremlin, though, because it always tested good in the driveway. The gremlin only revealed itself with a stress test.

So you're able to repair your AAR? Or would you like mine? I think a soaking might fix it, but then again, Jenny tried that with hers, only with limited success. She ultimately ordered a brand new one. If you're able to reassemble your coil around the bimetal strip, you might be able to re-make the coil out of nickel/chromium alloy wire. Maybe you could even re-connect the ends of the coil you have. Anyway, let me know if you'd like mine, give me an address, and I'll zip it off to you. Or if you make it to the peninsula, I could even hand it to you.

[Willoughby Z]

Sarah,

So glad you found the problem (pump). I get anxious hearing about puzzlers that keep a Z off the road.

I don't know if mine can be rebuilt or not. I haven't tested it to see if it's operational. All of the hoses and clamps/fitting were attached and sitting in a box. the PO had stripped the OEM fuel rail parts, installed a billet fuel rail with fuel pressure gauge and blocked off the port for the AAR. The connector of the AAR slips off easily, along with the attached coil around the bi-metal strip, probably not normal...

I test it soon, see if it works and if it tests out, I'll seal/glue/bond the connector assembly back together ( I have all summer!)

Thanks for the offer, though. Goin' to TiderwaterZ show?

Kris

Edited May 4, 2011 by Willoughby Z

[FastWoman]

Well, let me know if you need to adopt mine for refurbishing. The offer stands. I'll throw it in my "needs some TLC" parts box.

I got my new pump from Chesapeake Nissan. It goes in this Sunday, along with my good air regulator. Woohoo!

I don't think I'll make it to the Tidewater Z show. I've got neither the time nor the coin, although it sounds like fun. I'll probably be doing restoration work on an old 1930's house that Saturday, same as every Saturday.

[FastWoman]

(Bump)

So can anyone confirm whether the ZX and Z air regulators are compatible? I'm assuming they are, but it would be great to know for sure.

Thanks!

[sblake01]

I would say that they are interchangable. I've switched them between my 78 280Z and my 79 810 which uses the same air reg as a 79 ZX (22660-N4210) and they worked the same on either vehicle.

Edited May 6, 2011 by sblake01

[FastWoman]

Muchas gracias, Sr. Steve! Then my work is lined up for me this weekend.

[martinthezman]

I'm thinking about building one that is operated by a choke cable located on the console where the old 240z's had their choke lever. I think I could do it for under $50, and that way I could have full control of my idle. "SORRY FOR RESURRECTING AN OLD THREAD"...