Posted May 11, 201014 yr comment_319242 I'm going to replace my front seal this weekend. The FSM is vague on this procedure. I took a look at the job last night and it looks like I need to do the following:1. Remove radiator2. Remove fan3. Loosen pulley nut (put in 1st and engage the e-brake)4. Remove alternator belt5. Remove pulley with 6" puller6. Remove seal7. Clean surface and install new seal8. ReassembleA few questions:- What'd I miss?- What is the torque spec for the idler nut?- Should I pack the seal in grease prior to installing?- I don't have a seal driver. What can be used in it's place?- How many beers should I have on hand?Any advice would be appreciated. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/35861-front-seal-replacement/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
May 11, 201014 yr comment_319245 I can answer one of those questions, you need at least 12 beers. It sounds like a 12 hour job in the garage at a casual pace. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/35861-front-seal-replacement/#findComment-319245 Share on other sites More sharing options...
May 11, 201014 yr comment_319247 Crank pulley bolt torque is 116-130 ft-lbsSeal goes in without a driver. Just tap in around the circumference with a rubber mallet. No grease, other than engine oil on lip and pulley to ensure it slips on easy.Biggest trick is look at polished surface on crank pulley where seal lip rides. Must be as clean, smooth and perfect as possible. If you current seal leaks, there is a reason, and it may not be just the seal, but the beat up rusty dirty pitted surface it rides on.And no beer. Wait till it all runs again.Jim Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/35861-front-seal-replacement/#findComment-319247 Share on other sites More sharing options...
May 11, 201014 yr comment_319253 I did this a couple of weeks ago. I built a custom pulley-puller so that I could leave the radiator in place. But pulling the radiator would have given a lot more room to work. Some additional thoughts:If you use a Nissan factory seal, it comes with the seal area pre-lubed with grease, so no additional lubrication is needed. If the seal you use is not pre-lubed, a little oil or light grease is a very good idea.Turn the engine to TDC before you pull the pulley off the crank nose. This will assist you in getting the keyway aligned with the woodruff key when you reassemble.I strongly recommend having a new woodruff key on hand before you start. If the current key does want to stay in place well, replace it. Nissan part number is 00926-51600, list price is less than $1.Be very careful to to get the key/keyway lined up properly, and that the key is firmly enough embedded that it won't move as you push the pulley over it. The pulley is cast iron, and therefore brittle. You don't want to do what I found the PO did to mine. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38293 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/35861-front-seal-replacement/#findComment-319253 Share on other sites More sharing options...
May 11, 201014 yr comment_319263 A little wheel bearing grease will hold the key in place quite well for most applications...That is what I use to do in my small block Chevy days. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/35861-front-seal-replacement/#findComment-319263 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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