Thank for the picture, Arne, but it still doesn't tell you the I.D. of the clamp.

Assuming "car batteries" manufactured for use in the U.S. all have the same post dimensions, I will have to conclude that the "positive" clamp is either a universal fit or it is supposed to fit onto a "positive" battery post, and so forth for the "negative" one.

Tomohawk,

I will verify for you that these terminal ends are properly sized and tapered for the posts. There is only one way they will fit on, so you have to get the proper angled terminal for the proper polarity. These are top quality ends and since they are not universal they snug down securley with very little torque. That is why i didn't get the cheapy ones at the parts store because they are universal.

Steve,

Nice tip. Thanks for the link to Remy Battery

I replicated Dave Irwin's battery cable connection by using battery terminals with allen-bolts. They can be found at stereo shops and there are many brands. I used Raptor brand terminals and Distribution box.

The last thing to do is create a cover for the positive terminal.

Dave Ruiz

76 280Z

Much like powderkeg I used a shiny allen bolt based terminal from Scoshe at Wally world. It is Pretty and well stuck on there. Though the battery cut off switch I have tied to it looks ugly as hell.

I just had to share this product that I came across when planning my battery cables. I wanted to run as stock of a battery size as i could so I could use the original battery bracket and cover for my 71(just because I had one).

Anyway, off the shelf battery cables have ends that hit the plastic battery cover and are usually pretty cheaply made. So, I went on a search for battery cable ends, but then realized that a crimper would then bee needed even if I found the right ones. Then i stumbled onto the Remy battery site and found these fusion battery terminal ends-what a great idea. They had 90 degree terminal ends and I could make the cables at home easily.

http://www.remybattery.com/Departments/Cable--Accessories/Connectors--Lugs-and-Terminals/Fusion-Solder-Lugs-and-Terminals/Terminal-Clamps.aspx

Were the cables cheap-well about 45$ to make including wire, but have you priced the kits on Summitt. bought the 2 guage wire from Napa and the terminal ends from Remy and had the cables done in 15 mintes and better then anything you can buy over the counter.

If I had an extra 40 bux burning a hole in my pocket and needed cables I'd think about those. I like that flag connector idea but it needs to be L shaped.

Did you paint your starter? The engine bay looks good.

I forgot to add that I stuffed an extra 10 guage wire in each terminal before soldering. The terminal ends were for #1 wire, but I used # 2 thinking that was more then ample enough and that allowed a little room to squeeze an additional circuit wire in the terminal before soldering. On the ground side I ran the exra ground wire to the chassis ground just below and the hot wire I will save for additional circuit(s) later.

The whole car is painted Mike, but the engine compartment looks the best right now. Soon I will have all the loom run and will take some more pics.

I cut a peice of rubber innertube and used weatherstrip glue to attach it to the underside of that metal brace. Cheap and easy insurance.

Bonzi Lon

I'm going to do this, but I have a question. I assume that I can buy either 1 or 2 guage wire, but which size is stock?

Peter

Not sure what is stock size, but most battery wire at parts stores are about 4 guage. I can't imagine that you would need any heavier then 2 guage for such a short run of wire.

Stock battery cables are only 6 gauge wire. They should be replaced with no less than 6 gauge but I usually suggest 4 gauge as it is larger and more readily available.

Did the same thing when I installed my Optima Red Top (going on 7 years now...).

One of my open ended wrenches has a spot where a 2mm deep pit of material was blasted off with a terrifying bang and spray of sparks.

It was a good demonstration of the ridiculous amount of current a car battery is capable of dumping out.

Slightly off thread but ,--we do need to be carefull shorting across batteries.

I had an experience on a Massey Ferguson tractor some years ago, of the steel battery cover coming loose and falling onto the battery while the engine was running at about 2500 rpm. Quite a violent explosion,and battery acid all over my legs.Not a very nice experience. The hydrogen coming from the battery when charging is very dangerous .One side had blown out of the battery:stupid: This does emphasize the need to make sure our Zed batteries are clamped down properly.

Edited May 29, 201014 yr by olzed

What are the optimal lengths for the battery cables?