Perhaps a copper water pipe of the same diameter with the edge ground down to a sharpness then using it as a punch. Might work?

Mike

Mike,

Now we are talking, thanks.

Keith

Sounds like an old plumber talking!  I have actually done that in the past to make a hole punch.  I have copper pipe and tube AND I have a proper pipe reaming tool  (because I am a Journeyman Plumber).  If you "over use" the reaming tool, you can get quite a sharp edge on the end of the tube!

2 hours ago, zed2 said:

My intent was not to enter production making clear plastic protectors.  The hardest part is cutting the large holes in the material, using a pair of small scissors on this thick material takes a beating on my hands.  I am researching a hole punch that may have sufficient reach.  If this solution works out then perhaps I can go into limited production.... maybe I'll make the 50 sets and then wait 50 years to sell through them all

Keith

They make gasket punches. I think I bought a cheap set of them at HF. They are round punches with a sharpened leading edge and a slot on the side for the disc to come out. I would think that would get you pretty close. If you know the diameter you need I could try to find mine and see if one of them corresponds in size

They could potentially be laser cut. Would not take too long to create a set of files using a cad package such as Fusion360 and laser cut them. 

I have the skills and equipment if there is demand. 

Do you know what material the plastic is (there are some plastics you should not cut on a laser). 

scotta,

I do not believe there is great demand, hence Zeddsaver not offering the product.

Keith

I am in the process of recovering my original seats (covers) on my '72.  The Driver's side did not have the clear plastic pieces, but the passenger side had them on the seat back only.  I am assuming the pieces were removed at one time or another.  Not really sure of the purpose.

DavidF,

The purpose of the plastic is to avoid moisture that is trapped in the seat foam and vinyl to wick against the metal brackets.  As you found when you removed the seat covers, the metal frame and shell had surface rust, an indication of prior moisture exposure.

Unless you are an original owner of your 240Z and can attest that the seat covers were not previously removed by a prior owner, I think is it save to assume that some of your protectors were damaged and discarded. Zeddsaver has the 1972-1978 style on their website.

Keith

7tooZ and Zup

What is your timeframe for reassembling your seats?

Keith

@zed2

Within the coming year.

On 12/7/2018 at 4:49 PM, zed2 said:

DavidF,

The purpose of the plastic is to avoid moisture that is trapped in the seat foam and vinyl to wick against the metal brackets.  As you found when you removed the seat covers, the metal frame and shell had surface rust, an indication of prior moisture exposure.

Unless you are an original owner of your 240Z and can attest that the seat covers were not previously removed by a prior owner, I think is it save to assume that some of your protectors were damaged and discarded. Zeddsaver has the 1972-1978 style on their website.

Keith

Thanks, the seat back “Brackets” were virtually rust free even where no plastic was found.   Your right, no way of telling if old seat covers were original, but vents were proper, horse hair, one layer of glue as would be expected in places, etc.

On 12/6/2018 at 6:26 PM, zed2 said:

This style is designed for the seat bracket that allows the seat back to fold forward, a feature that early 240Zs lack.

I really didn't like the recliner adjustment on my series 1 car and with the plastic tool housing being right behind the seat was a pain to get to. Since my car isn't completely series 1 correct anymore I had no issue sourcing later style seats that fold forward and have the spring seat bases instead of the straps. I got the new foam from MSA and recovered them in leather from Interior Innovations and am very pleased with the result.