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started body work on my 280


grantf

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Z is in the "paint booth" The car needs cleaning more sanding and more bits removed and touch up primed, the "paint booth" (loading dock). needs cleaning also. I am exited this is finally going to painted (yellow, not my first choice but it was the original color, thought I would stay true).

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Edited by grantf
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  • 2 weeks later...

I will be painting the Z hopefully in the next two days. here is a question: were do I find new squeegee rubber for the upper door mounding? The old ones are hard as a rock and large chips are missing, this rubber appears to be stapled to the SS moulding.

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Ok so today I got color on some of the loose body parts!!! HVLP guns are so much easier to use than the conventional gun I used last time I sprayed a car. :) Very little orange peal but I need to keep things cleaner as there is some dust landing in the paint. but hey Its turning out better than

I thought!

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Edited by grantf
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Are you using a two stage paint?

Just a tip to help with the orange peel. When you are laying on the clear, for the first coat, put it on a little bit dry, don't try and make it glossy on the first pass. This gives the 2nd coat something to stick too and it doesnt' separate as much. On 2nd coat, you make it a bit more glossy, then the third is when I'll try and make it wet. Since you are only allowing it to flash for 10 minutes between coats, it will still "melt" together and lay down. Especially if you picked a medium hardener and its good and warm where you are painting.

If you aren't using a 2 stage base/clear. shame on you!

That's how I paint anyway. Here are pics of my race bike I painted, no buffing, color sanding, or polishing. This is straight from the gun..

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Shame on me :disappoin

I am using ppg shopline Acrylic urethane, single stage. Reasons are, I am on a budget (I got the sealer and paint at distributor cost), I am painting it a solid color (sunburst yellow) If I went with metallic I would have used Base clear. Thanks for the painting tips though,I will be painting a "fog coat, color coat, gloss coat on the body tomorrow, I believe the techniques are similar including the 10 min flash time. I cleaned the shop again today (it seems I can never finish cleaning the dock and the car) and went over the car again with degreaser.

P.S. My 1977 Kawaski kh400 could probably beat you're bike in a drag (but only in a strait line).

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Edited by grantf
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Shame on me :disappoin

I am using ppg shopline Acrylic urethane, single stage. Reasons are, I am on a budget (I got the sealer and paint at distributor cost), I am painting it a solid color (sunburst yellow) If I went with metallic I would have used Base clear. Thanks for the painting tips though,I will be painting a "fog coat, color coat, gloss coat on the body tomorrow, I believe the techniques are similar including the 10 min flash time. I cleaned the shop again today (it seems I can never finish cleaning the dock and the car) and went over the car again with degreaser.

P.S. My 1977 Kawaski kh400 could probably beat you're bike in a drag (but only in a strait line).

Nice Kaw. I like the old ones ;)

I've used the shopline acrylic. I will look good. I just still can't get over how easy and how slick the ppg two stage is. The base goes real far with the reducer too. I wouldn't think it would have cost too much more. Two quarts of base would have been plenty, 1 might have done it. Anyway, my technique might not help and I'm no pro by any means. I've just wrecked and repainted it enough times to get fairly decent with a spray gun LOL

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Yes I believe at tack coat then thicker coats after are the way to go all in all I sprayed four on the car, I think it turned out well considering it was a dirty loading dock, I did get 3 runs :mad: but they are small and should sand out easy.

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