Any success with locating a supplier of just the rubber? I have rain pouring down my passenger size window into the door.

Replacing the rubber is a simple process of removing the staples, the steel strip, then the rubber. Then it would be simple enough to just drill, using the staple holes as a guide, out some holes large enough for small rivets. I've rebuilt the hold stainless strip using a window squeegee from a Volvo 740, but it's a pretty "meh" fit and it was sort of a pain in the arse to get it set up as the Volvo's rubber fits in a groove while the Z's is obviously stapled; so there's some finessing that needs to be done.. right now it is just a hold over until I get actual rubber.

I got mine at DATSUNLANDSOCAL part # D001 48 $ for the pair plus s/h ,,phone # 714 393 0273. They require the removal of the staple that holds them to the SS frame and they provide the clips that holds the rubber to the frame.

Edited February 7, 201213 yr by 72 OJ

I got mine at DATSUNLANDSOCAL part # D001 48 $ for the pair plus s/h ,,phone # 714 393 0273. They require the removal of the staple that holds them to the SS frame and they provide the clips that holds the rubber to the frame.

really I am going to look into that.

Do they sell internationally? I had my driver side rubber vaporized but i dont want to buy that expensive chrome strip for new rubber, current chrome is in mint condition..

Edited February 8, 201213 yr by Reverend

72OJ, Have you put them on yet? did they work well? I am thinking of buying them but I don't want to jump the gun.

it included the chrome strip. no need to staple your own.

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=17

Edited February 21, 201213 yr by hr369

I ordered a set from black dragon and ity was about $110 shipped for the pair for my 71. Not too bad IMO. They are great quality as far as looks and build. Have not put them on as my car is in pieces waiting for paint. I have the set I took off my car and they are in pretty good shape. Chrome is mint and the rubber is just a bit hard but complete and not falling apart. PM me if you are interested in them.

Yes I was able to installed them, they seem to do their job and they look fine but not close to stock.

I received and installed the squeegees today. I would give them a 75 out of a 100 score. Considering they are about 1/3 the price of new molding strips, that's not bad. Also, one of them had a small gouge in the rubber that would be visible. I am not one to return things due to my lack of patience, so I used them anyway.

1) Remove the moldings from the car by prying on the rear portion with a plastic putty knife. Pull it up and work forwards by hand. (careful not to drop the window roller into the door. A magnet will retrieve it :stupid: )

2) Use an awl to bend open the staples, and raise them up.

3) Snip the staples with a cutter.

4) Line up the new rubber strips at the back of the chrome molding, note where the original strips began.

4b) TIP: To match the slight curve of the original chrome molding, snip the new rubber strip as shown, in one or two places. (photo 5 below)

5) Press on the retainer clips, longer side of the retainer should go inside the molding channel.

6) Trim the angle into the forward edge of the new rubber to match the originals.

7) Reinstall onto door.

14) Why don't these instructions come with the strips?????

Comments: The window stays up tighter now and does not drop down while driving at all. When the window is partially rolled down, it does not rattle over bumps. With the windows shut, the door closes with a more solid sound from the window being more tightly held in place. Looks fine to me. It took about 1:15 to do both sides. A few more retainer clips would be nice and make sure you don't place them over the OEM molding clips inside the chrome trim. Keep all forces in check. Don't strong-arm anything or you could dent your moldings. Hammer on the new clips with a hammer's wood handle, while holding the assembly in your other hand. Gentle!

Edited April 29, 201212 yr by cygnusx1

Dave:

Nice write-up and pictorial documentation.

Just might deserve to be a Tech Article.

I want to do a bit more checking, but Blue may be the best to ask as to the problems he encountered when we changed a few of his posts to Tech Articles.

E

Edited April 29, 201212 yr by EScanlon

Thanks, feel free to "use the force" and move the post if you want to. Might want to link to it, in this thread.

That's the rub. From what Blue mentioned to me, it's ok to put it up as a Tech, but then there are problems with the additional comments people make. Have to ask Arne and Mike if there's a problem or something we need to do different when upgrading a post to a Tech.

Nicely done though.

E