how did he use these coilovers?

[kenshin7]

now from what i can get from this z is that he just cut the perch where the spring sits and slid the coilover inside and wielded it. can anyone give me some inside on how you think he achieved this. i know its very very low. i cant go that low in my town anyways but i just like the fact i can go that low for the look. you ether love it or hate it. heres the link.

http://www.motormavens.com/2009/10/center-stage-shakotan-s30-240z/

hes the section where he talks about how he did it but i just feel like theres more to it then this.

For the car to be REALLY low, I would have to droop the springs excessively and I had no idea if I would be left with any travel. At first I tried using S13 coilovers. I cut the lower brackets to fit over the stock shock tubes, but to my dismay they wouldn’t go low enough, and I was left with less than an inch of travel at the height I was aiming for. I then started looking at different coilovers; ones meant for Miata, S2000, etc. I settled on coilovers meant for the Integra DC2. I drove out to the East Bay to pick up a used set of Function Forms, and figured I would use them as a guinea pig to see how compatible they would be with the car. They actually worked great. I went ahead and welded the lower brackets to the shock tubes in a similar fashion as I did with the S13 coilovers, except this time I would adjust pre load and ride height independently. To be honest, I was not expecting much from these coilovers, but for the time being I am quite satisfied. They ride well, very smooth, but don’t allow for excessive travel nor are they bouncy.

Other than that, the rest of the modifications are readily available bolt-ons. I purchased the front/rear lower control arms, tension rods, roll center adjusters and camber plates from Techno Toy Tuning. The tie rods and the roll bar are from ZCC (the roll bar is a replica of the old OS Giken model.)

thanks for all the help guys.

[jmortensen]

You get the 2" threaded collar that is used for most S13 kits where the strut screws into the strut housing. Then you get a strut that is really short. That's it. Then you too can ruin your car.

[Gary in NJ]

Why? What is the point of slamming a Z?

[jmortensen]

It looks cool. Or something.

[kenshin7]

i figured i wouldn't get much help on this forum. everyone is about function over form on this site. im not bashing anyones view on there zs. id just rather lower mine more then what kits that r available to me. sorry for wanting to be different.

[Gary in NJ]

I have no problem with wanting to be different. The Z I owned in the early 80's certainly fit that description. I just look at it this way; there are so few of these cars left, I hate to see one turned into something that strays too far from its original form. There is just so much beauty and elegance in the design.

To me, its sacrilege.

[kenshin7]

oh i now what u mean. i dont wanna go as low as he went. i love my car and dont wanna hurt it in anyway. i was just looking for a 3 to 4 inch drop. i was just wondering if what he did was a good idea by using another cars coilovers to get your drop or to just cut my strut housing a little bit more then usual. i ask because i dont wanna ruin my car. plus i plan on doing a 2jz swap so being super low isnt an option.

[gnosez]

So a big bad motor coupled to a suspension that has no travel, cool. At least I know of one Z I can out run on the twisties in my truck.....

[kenshin7]

man people are so quick to judge.

[ezzzzzzz]

It isn't judgement. It really comes down to functionality. That Z is nothing but a paperweight whether you or anyone else likes that look. A 3" to 4" drop is impractical on every level. Hell, you couldn't even get it up on a trailer to tow from place to place. The inspection laws are specific in this area. If the chassis can come in contact with the ground with a flat tire it is illegal. Besides that, the car would ride and handle like crap. That's the absolute truth. There is SO MUCH MORE involved than just cutting struts to get the car lowered. There have been many that have modded a car so extreme that it was miserable to drive if it was even drivable at the end. They usually end up selling the project for far less than their time and money invested. That is reality. People on this site prefer a stock to reasonably altered Z. Hybridz is more in tune with your views BUT they have also slammed this car too many times to count.

[jmortensen]

man people are so quick to judge.

Do you think we're judging incorrectly, or without reason?

[BTF/PTM]

Is there even 4" of clearance to be removed from under the lowest point of a z belly? You'd be dragging frame rails over speed bumps. Here's my recommendation:

1) remove springs and internal shock absorbers from inside strut housings.

2) reassemble suspension without shock absorbers or springs.

3) use some jacking method to lower the car the desired 4" and support it statically.

4) weld all suspension joints together so it's a static truss instead of a dynamic suspension. Use lengths of steel rod as spacers between struts and strut towers to maintain distance normally occupied by the springs.

5) drive your new hardtail 240z and marvel at the awesomeness of pure form with state of the art 19th century technology. Just make sure to wear your mouthguard and Leatt brace as NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness) may be a bit overwhelming.