i am trying to rebuild my Z's front suspension. I have everything off of the right front strut tube and when i was trying to take the threaded hexagonal thing off of the top of the strut tube to get the cartridge out, it broke off and this is what im lft with. i really need some help with this one any suggestions would be greatly appriciated

Since you are replacing the insert anyway, and therefore don't care about damaging the shaft, I'd weld a piece of angle iron across the top of the gland nut to use as a lever.

Doesn't look like a major problem.

First - soak the threaded area down with a good penetrating oil. Let that work for a day, then soak it down again and let that work for a day, then soak it down again. DO NOT RUSH THIS.. let the chemicals in the penetrating oil WORK

Second - using a chisel with a blade about 1/2 inch wide and brass hammer..apply the chisel at about a 45 degree angle, such that you are pushing what remains of the gland nut counter-clockwise and tap the chisel fairly hard with the brass hammer. Do this at different points around the gland nut.

If you have used a really good penetrating oil {Kano Lab's Kroil} and if you have let it work - the gland nut should break loose. If it doesn't, after a few good firm smacks with the brass hammer.. Then the next step is necessary.

Heat the strut tube around the area where the threads are. Actually, you can do that just before you use the chisel in the steps above, but I don't do it unless I find that it is necessary.

If you don't have a brass hammer - go to Harbor Freight and buy one. A brass hammer will not bounce back from when you hit the chisel, and it will deliver the most force to the chisel.

Sometimes I use a pointed Punch instead of a chisel.. depends on which gives the best purchase on the material at hand..

good luck

Edited July 1, 201014 yr by Carl Beck

I soaked it with WD 40 but not for as long as you said, and i tried using a punch, and a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to try to move the nut counter clockwise and it turned ever so slightly and now it wont turn

That is most likely because WD-40 is not really a penetrating oil.

Get some ATF and mix it 50/50 with Acetone. Use that for a couple days..and let it soak into the treaded area. You may have to apply small amounts all around the threaded area a couple times a day.. but once it gets down into the theads it will not only break the bond of rust, it will lubricate the threads..so the part doesn't seeze up once it starts moving..

The shaft on a flat blade screwdrive, will flex when you try to use it like a chisel - and that flex will absorb to much of the needed force. Likewise using a steel hammer much of the needed force is absorbed in the bounce-back. Using the righ tools matters..

i see i will try your method

Mine had threadlock on them. I like the welding idea. Put some tape around the top of the tube so that you don't gaul it.

Hello , I would follow the advice that Carl suggested . the atf \acetone mixture is the best penetrate that I have ever used . I read about this mixture while reading on this site and it was my saving grace when I encountered any stubborn bolts and nuts . I would soak and use a little heat in combination and let it sit a while and then repeat with atf\acetone combo and you should be able to free up most anything that seems frozen solid . Good luck, and when they come loose you will have a great sense of victory until you reach the next obstacle , known as fixing up a Z car ! Just have some fun with it and be patient.

later

Chris

If you can't get Kroil, try PBlaster. Autozone carries it, I'm sure other places also.

Throw the WD-40 and Liquid-Wrench away for a 'rust-breaker' or only use it to lube door hinges.

PB is phenomenal.

Since it did move, soak it a little more and hit it in the opposite direction to "retighten" the nut. Then hit it to loosen again.

Moving is a good sign, so just keep working it back and forth to try to clear the threads and eventually it should break free.