Jump to content
Remove Ads

Featured Replies

I at least never had any illusions that my car was "rust free". But some of that rust frightens me. How do you get the ROOF to rust like that?

The fender lip rust looks very typical, but the roof rust... that is scary.



Remove Ads

My opinion? Bear in mind that I pay other people to do my body and paint work. That said, IMO that car is terminal. I'd part it out and a better one. While truly rust-free are rare, here on the West coast there are lots of better starting points, for not a lot of money. A $1500 car without all the structural roof and pillar rust will be money well spent.

I have had four cars offered to me in the past two weeks all of them in better shape then that one. Do what you want, you ask and we are telling you our honest opinions.

Edited by a7dz

No, dont think that i dont appreciate your input! I really do!!!!!

I am on the hunt for a better chassis, in the mean time I will try to clean this one up and take better pics so we can definitively assess its doom

Hey guys,

Here are the pics of the underside. Does this change things for the better, or does it still lend itself towards scrapping this car for a better chassis? Thanks

f3dcw7.jpg

1zq7pjq.jpg

i36jgn.jpg

9lbb6v.jpg

16h0y8z.jpg

18k8kk.jpg

2d7c6u1.jpg

2w5rhxs.jpg

97mq0g.jpg

2e3czcw.jpg

Thanks!!!

  Walter Moore said:
I at least never had any illusions that my car was "rust free". But some of that rust frightens me. How do you get the ROOF to rust like that?

The fender lip rust looks very typical, but the roof rust... that is scary.

How about a pile of wet leaves on an unpainted/unprimered surface,

resulting in an area that never gets dry.

FWIW,...........Rick

Abe,

For every true restoration there should be a part car - now that you have a part car you can look for your car to restore or refresh - I would part that one out - dismantle every part you can - keep all the screws and nut and bolts you can! Bag and tag everything!! Once you get another car it is amazing how many pieces you need to replace - repair. You've got a great start and don't get dis-hearted.

Now you can look for a $4-6K car and you will be set for your project.

This is not a setback, this is an opportunity!!;)

Hi Abe, I've tackled rust similar to what you've shown on a couple of 240Z's, plus a few non-Z cars. I have no formal welding training, but have managed to weld in patches where needed and grind the weld bead down enough to make a suitable repair. A little Duraglass then a little bondo type filler and Bob's your Uncle.

Will your car ever be a concourse show winner? Sure, but only after lots of bux and hard work. Will it be a decent cruiser? You bet.

The advice you have received to part it out is valid, but don't let the challenges get in your way. If you take the parts car route, what harm is there in "practicing" your welding skills on it? Either you will botch it up royally, which would be no major problem because it is a parts car. Or, you will do a passable job and it will turn out ok. In this case you could end up with a nice driver.

I am a hands on, do it myself kind of guy. I took auto shop in high school, 20 some years ago, but have no other formal training in auto related work. Even so, I do all my own mechanical and body work, including welding and painting. If you have the desire, then get the tools you need and get busy! You can whip that car into shape and then when someone gives you a compliment on it you will have the satisfaction that comes from doing the work yourself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Remove Ads

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.