HELP! need to pass emissions by the 16th!

[doradox]

What was your CO reading? CO is a direct indicator of mixture. Lower Co = leaner mixture. Too low and you will have a lean miss and high HC. Unburned fuel due to the miss. Too high and you'll get high HC. Too much fuel for complete combustion so the left over fuel goes out the pipe. The cat likes a relatively narrow range of mixture to perform correctly. Too lean or rich and it won't light.

Steve

[Walter Moore]

Question,

does it have a catalytic converter? I have been "advised" on this site that the 49 state models did not come with one. (I personally never saw any post 76 car that didn't have a converter, but that is beside the point.)

That may alter the strategy regarding making it comply.

[Z train]

Last ditch effort-borrow someone's MSD box.

[Shade133]

yes it has a cat and its was said that it was still in good condition from the exhaust guy.

and the co was in passing range when i took it to emissions.. i dont know the exact number (im at work) so in a while when i get a few moments ill walk down to the car and grab the paper.

but i do know it was in passing range when the hydrocarbons were up 1300 (around 250 pass)

which is why im so stumped because ive never seen hydrocarbons up so high and not have the CO off also.

ill post the actuall ratings in a few

[Shade133]

I agree with Mr.Blake-however, being in Phoenix,you will lose nothing by pinching off the CSV line.It is POSSIBLE(however remotely)that the CSV could be dribbling just enough to screw up the idle

sorry for the double post, just saw this.

what is the CSV?

[Shade133]

ok the last emissionstest numbers are as fallows

(they only test HC and CO here in phoenix i guess)

LOAD READING

Hydrocarbons in PPM 210 (standard is 250) pass

Carbon Monoxide in % 0.94 (standard is 1.50) pass

IDLE READING

Hydrocarbons in PPM 1334 (standard is 250) Fail

Carbon Monoxide in % 0.10 (standard is 2.00) pass.

(EDIT)Here are the emission readings from before i did all the work on it.

LOAD

HC PPM 220 (250)

CO% 0.43 (1.50)

IDLE

HC PPM 828 (250)

CO% 0.06 (2.00)

SO from what you guys are saying and what the readings are saying, at idle i have a LEAN missfire, correct? at load everything checks out but at idle the CO is WAY to low.. sooo i either have a vacume leak or another intake leak?

or is there other things that might be wrong like a bad valve? or weak valve spring? or maybe valves need to be adjusted?

the mechanic wants me to spend 100 bucks and have him look at it, which isnt bad, but ill be mad if i pay him 100 bucks for something i could of fixed with a 2 dollar hose. or a new hose clamp. or a 10 dollar sensor, or connector, i just dont have the money to waste right now.. if i can be efficiant with it. which sucks because id love to have the mechanic go all through it and make it pur like a lion again!

so what do you guys think?

BTW here is a picture of it. just for fun. it even has a aftermarket moon roof! (sunroof without the hindges attached ..)

Edited July 13, 2010 by Shade133

[doradox]

ok the last emissionstest numbers are as fallows

(they only test HC and CO here in phoenix i guess)

LOAD READING

Hydrocarbons in PPM 210 (standard is 250) pass

Carbon Monoxide in % 0.94 (standard is 1.50) pass

IDLE READING

Hydrocarbons in PPM 1334 (standard is 250) Fail

Carbon Monoxide in % 0.10 (standard is 2.00) pass.

(EDIT)Here are the emission readings from before i did all the work on it.

LOAD

HC PPM 220 (250)

CO% 0.43 (1.50)

IDLE

HC PPM 828 (250)

CO% 0.06 (2.00)

SO from what you guys are saying and what the readings are saying, at idle i have a LEAN missfire, correct? at load everything checks out but at idle the CO is WAY to low.. sooo i either have a vacume leak or another intake leak?

or is there other things that might be wrong like a bad valve? or weak valve spring? or maybe valves need to be adjusted?

the mechanic wants me to spend 100 bucks and have him look at it, which isnt bad, but ill be mad if i pay him 100 bucks for something i could of fixed with a 2 dollar hose. or a new hose clamp. or a 10 dollar sensor, or connector, i just dont have the money to waste right now.. if i can be efficiant with it. which sucks because id love to have the mechanic go all through it and make it pur like a lion again!

so what do you guys think?

BTW here is a picture of it. just for fun. it even has a aftermarket moon roof! (sunroof without the hindges attached ..)

Looks a little lean at idle to me. I'd look for vacuum leaks first. If the AF meter needs adjusted I'd suggest letting a pro do it. without a gas analyzer you'll be shooting in the dark.

Steve

[Shade133]

awesome. ill Severely check for intake and vacume leaks. ill need a few cans of carb cleaner for this

and i know to check for intake leaks and vacume leaks on the intake manafold and all componants and vacume lines but is there anything else i can check, like those little vacume pods (about the size of a quarter) that are on some vacume hoses? if so how do i check those. and are there any vacume componants i can check that lead to vacume lines or provide/use vacume?

if i check all this and it still misses then i will take it to the mechanic, because he said with that 100 dollars he will first hook it up to a gas analyzer and adjust the AFM and adjust timing and idle, then move on to check sensors and connectors and what not.

[geezer]

Ask the mechanic if he minds you watching while he earns your $100.00. It could be an opportunity for you to pick up some valuable information and save yourself lots of aggravation. Just a thought and you would also make your deadline, if he is successful.

[Shade133]

thats a good idea. and with the deadline, i dont have the money until the 21st when i get paid so i wont be able to make it

[az240z]

who is the mechanic??

and a little secret, you can get a 1 time 30 day temp registration at www.servicearizona.com or just a 3 day temp registration. Do you still have the out of state plates??

Edited July 14, 2010 by az240z

[Shade133]

Dale at fairway auto in phoenix