Crank Pulley / Harmonic Damper Question

[texasz]

I am building up an engine and need to decide on this part and have a few questions. I know that there are the stock ones available from MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SMEC14A

Then there are the Performance ones from MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEM06

First question, are there others available out there and if so from who/where (links would be great if you have them)?

Second question, the performance ones are cheaper than stock for some strange reason...it's usually the other way around, why?

Third question, what are the differences and which is best for a high performance engine (NOT stock)...more specifically it's a 3.1L stroker?

Thanx in advance!

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I can add to your question. Is the pulley/damper one piece on Z cars, I have not looked. I have no smog or AC system on my car, yet it has a 3 groove pulley. I would like to put a lighter single groove on it.

To shed some light on your question, is the OEM'ness of the stock part is probably driving up the cost due to rarity.

Edited July 14, 2010 by Zedyone_kenobi

[Diseazd]

I bought 2 of the SFI-spec racing dampers from MSA. The fit was poor....I had to take the pulley to a machine shop to modify both the keyway and the bore. It was so tight when I tried to install it out of the box that you would have needed a sledge hammer to install it!!! I ended up putting them on the shelf and buying 2 stock two groove dampers. If you or anyone else wants the racing dampers, PM me and you can have them both for $100.00 plus shipping. The early 280z stock dampers are the best (for either the 240 or the 280) because there is a 1/4" honed area in the bore that allows you to slide into the woodruff key and then tighten it up. Experience is good!!!

[texasz]

I can add to your question. Is the pulley/damper one piece on Z cars, I have not looked. I have no smog or AC system on my car, yet it has a 3 groove pulley. I would like to put a lighter single groove on it.

To shed some light on your question, is the OEM'ness of the stock part is probably driving up the cost due to rarity.

That 3rd row on your crank pulley is just attached with 6 or 8 bolts (I forget which). Now removing it may throw off the balance of the unit so you should be aware of this.

[esmit208]

Call Dave Rebello of Rebello Racing in Antioch California. He should be able to help you out with advice and/or the correct balancer. Be prepared though he might have some technical questions though such as fuel delivery method I.E carbs or fuel injection.

[esmit208]

You have a good starter. Do it slow and thourough. If you cut corners you will end up doing it again. I suggest a triple carb setup for fuel delivery. Remember....HAPPINESS is NOT just around the corner..HAPPINESS IS THE CORNER!.... Good Luck

[texasz]

You have a good starter. Do it slow and thourough. If you cut corners you will end up doing it again. I suggest a triple carb setup for fuel delivery. Remember....HAPPINESS is NOT just around the corner..HAPPINESS IS THE CORNER!.... Good Luck

Already got a set of triple Mikuni 44 to put in.

[John Coffey]

The SFI rated dampers are supposed to be a very tight fit. In some cases you need to hone the ID to get it on correctly. Also, heating the damper to about 150 degrees (no hotter due to the ring bonding) helps.

[Diseazd]

Thanks for that info John......I was afraid that I was going to drive the woodruff key through the oil slinger if it wasn't aligned properly. The early 280 dampers are honed out 1/4" by the factory so you can feel the woodruff key lock into the damper. I usually put a mark on the center of the the keyway for installation, but if you misalign the damper, it can gouge the damper or worse.

Edited July 19, 2010 by Diseazd

[conedodger]

The Performance Balancer that MSA lists is the same design as the one that was available through Nissan Competition years back. I have one and the bolt/washer set up on the shelf in the garage.