R/T Mount Group Buy. 2nd Batch. Who's in...

[Arne]

Any chance of another group buy? I for one would be all in!

Larry

No need for a group buy, they are available pretty much all the time at http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

[Zs-ondabrain]

Sorry, just woke up (late night) Arne beat me to it.

[Montezuma]

Thanks Arne....been meaning to buy one.

Edited December 13, 2011 by Montezuma

[philbar73]

I'm just finishing a rebuild, restore on my 1973 240Z. I have a big clunk form the rear end when I shift. The drive shaft and axils are solid, very little movement in the universal and axils so I’m sure it’s the differential mount. I ordered an R-T diff mount and the GM transmission mount. It looks like it will be here in the next few days. The question is can I just remove the stock mount and the strap and slip this in or do I have to drop the differential completely to install the new mount. I have been reading everything I can find on the R T mount but cannot tell what the job will be.

[Diseazd]

Just installed my fourth R/T mount in my 73. Remove the 4 bolts from the driveshaft and hang it aside. Loosen the 2 nuts attaching the diff to the mustache bar as much as you can without removing them. Remove the 4 bolts holding the bracket that holds the diff mount as well as the bolt attaching the diff mount. Remove the bracket. Now remove the diff mount long bolts holding the diff mount. Remove the 4 bolts holding the diff strap and remove it. Install the R/T mount (saw off 1 1/2 rings from the bump stop before installing). It takes some coaxing to align the holes (a big hammer and punch). Reinstall the new diff mount with the long bolts. Reinstall everything. You may need to remove the exhaust also, but that depends. It's a super upgrade......you'll love it.

[philbar73]

Thanks Diseazd for the fast response. I'm looking forward to driving with a solid drive train. I've been real easy on it because of the bang in the back. Looks like less them an hour of work the way you explained it. Thank for the info and thanks to everyone that has helped me and all the information on this site. It's on the road for the first time in 28 years. 4 years of weekends to take it apart and put it back together. It was worth it. Feels like when I first got the car 36 years ago. I’m very excited.

[Diseazd]

My diff mount came off in 2 pieces . It's a 2 1/2 hour job, but by just hanging the diff off the mustache bar, it saves you a ton of time. The hardest part is getting to the driveshaft bolts and lining up the holes on the R/T mount.......Go do it!

[Zs-ondabrain]

You're using the GM Mount so You'll have to, or would be better off, dropping the diff downwards in the front. The GM Mount Bolts to teh top of the diff and the 2 bolts that hold the stock diff mount need to be removed in order to do that.

Lower the diff by dropping the cross-member and loosening the 2 large nuts on the mustach bar. This will allow it to drop more than normal.

Remove the strap and instal the R/T mount. Place the GM mount stud into the R/T mount top and just thread the nut on a few turns to hold it there.

On the diff,

Remove the 2 big bolts, remove the lower diff mount, place the bolts back in the diff without the washers, place one washer on each bolt on top of the diff, raise the diff so the bolts go through the holes of the GM Mount. Then put the nuts on to hold the diff to the GM Mount and slowly raise it to make sure it's all aligned before bolting it all together and tight. Once you're sure that it'll all go good, bolt it down.

Tighten the nut on top of the R/T, tighten the 2 large nuts on the back of the diff (mustache bar) and bolt up your cross member without the lower diff mount.

*CAUTION*

The heads of the 2 bolts may try and hit the cross member. IF this happens, just remove the cross member after marking where the bolts hit. Use a ball peen hammer to dent the crossmember enough to allow the bolt heads to Not hit when mounted. If it rubs when driving, you'll hear it in the cab and it'll be loud and drive you nuts.

I've installed about 6 of these using both the bump stop and the GM Mount. Bump stop is easier and sandwiches the diff on the upper and lower. Unless you're doing a V8 swap, I suggest you do the Bump stop instead of the GM MOunt. ($12 for 2 at your local auto parts store.

Dave

[philbar73]

Thanks again for all the help. I have the mount in hand. Can anyone tell me what two nuts and bolts I will need to bolt the GM mount to the diff so I will have everything ready when I lift the car off the ground. I have a stock R180 rear. I hope to get it done Sunday before the big game.

[Zs-ondabrain]

The same 2 bolts that are already holding the diff mount to the diff. about 4" long with the nuts and washers on top of the diff.

[Diseazd]

I would recommend using the bump stop.......not the GM mount. It's a lot easier install. You'll need to cut 2 of the little circles off. IMO

[philbar73]

Thanks everyone. The RT mount and GM mounts are in. All went well; I wish I had a lift. Maybe 3 hours of work. The only tough spot was breaking the 17MM (big bolts) that held the old mount to the Diff. I had to take off a back wheel to pull on the breaker bar. The car was off the ground so no big deal. The rest of the bolts had been out 2 years ago when I cleaned up the body so they came out easy. I haven driven it because I'm having a bung put in the exhaust for an O2 sensor now that the pipe is out of the car. My wife gave me a fuel/air gauge for Christmas. I should have the pipe back tomorrow. I could see a little play in one of the universal joints on the passenger side axle but very little. I'm going to run it and keep an eye on it. I'll let you know if the clunk is gone. Thanks again for all the advise... Hope you have a great day