BRE Spoilers and Spooks are back

[Galaxybj]

Today I thought I'd go ahead and do all the measuring/marking for installing the BRE rear spoiler. What I discovered is that the outer studs are not the same distance apart as the originals, making it impossible to install. The original studs, according to installation instructions I found on line, were 40 3/4" apart. The current spoiler has the studs at 40 5/16". I am disappointed that a BRE product doesn't meet the standards that the early year products did. I have great respect for BRE and this won't change my support for them.

Edited September 17, 2014 by Galaxybj

[jfa.series1]

I can't see any excuse for the damaged finish along the entire top edge of the spoiler. That is not incidental damage, it has been ground or filed off. I suspect there is a problem with the mold and the edge is not coming out clean and this is someone's very poor "fix". This should be completely finished in gelcoat and ready for installation or paint to color of your choice. As to the mounting studs, one might presume no prior installation holes in the vehicle and therefore new holes would be drilled to the current spec. If BRE assured you that the spec was the same as original, then you have an issue to take back to them - along with the finish item.

As an aside, my dealer had already installed the 1st gen BRE "Spook" and spoiler when I bought my car - and they are still with it. The BRE site shows the current "Spook" as the original but it is really the 2nd gen. design for 1971 and after. Here are a couple of pics of the 1st gen. "Spook", used only for the 1970 competition season.

[ajmcforester]

When I purchased mine it was a second gen spook stye and it fit. When I did research into the BRE parts there was two generations of the spoilers and spooks from them. SO you might have gotten a closed match product, but the wrong gen from your last one that you are replacing. I did ask BRE about accuracy to the originals, they told me they were using the same molds. THey are getting a little worn, on the spooks their was indication marks in the mold to tell you were to drill, well if you look hard enough in the light at the right angle I was able to find all but one of the marks. The spoiler mold is two parts and if it is getting worn it would explain the grind marks because that is the seam and resin would seep. I think they expect your going to paint it and it is good in that case that they do not try to cover it up with paint, because the surface would get thicker and thick paint cracks and swells a lot on fiberglass. The one thing I did not like about the spook was the weaved fiberglass they placed on the back, I'm working for an original look and they did not have weaved fiberglass so I need to get resin out sand it down on the back and put mesh fiberglass on the back.

[NVZEE]

Pete Brock's personal S1 240 is supposed to be unveiled at JCCS 9/27 and looks to include the spook and spoiler, so BRE may have updated info on how they install. New BRE shirt gives a silhouette with both classic details:

http://www.bre2.net/mm5/graphics/00000001/bre2_240z_legend_tshirt_lgt.jpg

[Galaxybj]

I am not sure that the installation would be any different given the rear hatch is the same as it was 40+ years ago and these rear spoilers are to be the same as 40+ years ago. Here are the instructions I found https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByCvxnHNk90SYzVBMS05STRRdS1IeG1NUjZhMUlSQQ/edit?sort=name&ddrp=1&layout=list&pid=0ByCvxnHNk90SRXpBZ2NaTDNTX2FLVTd6UUhBRkJpdw&cindex=17

Unfortunately the current spoilers do not come with everything listed on the original instructions.

[ajmcforester]

Attached is the Spook directions. if you get the spook and you have the lower valance with the welded in bolt location do not use the fasteners listed they are a slightly different size and pitch.

I asked about the washers here is the response I got for the sizes

"The original BRE parts guy says 7/8” small washer and 1½” large washer. I ran this by Peter and he said this sounds about right although he doesn’t know if they make a washer as large as 1.5” but he says you want it to be as large as you can find."

[jfa.series1]

Here's a few considerations when installing a BRE rear spoiler:

- Make sure to clean and paint the brackets holding the studs to prevent rust.

- Use self-locking nuts when securing it to the hatch.

- Consider inserting a small O-ring on each stud prior to mounting to the hatch. The O-ring will help seal the hole thru the hatch and it helps hold the stud brackets slightly above the hatch surface and reduce abrasion to the hatch paint. The O-rings can also be used to help adjust the clearance of the ends of the spoiler against the fenders.

As to the rough top edge on the new series of spoilers, here is a shot of the top edge of my old one. It has a flat about 5/16" wide across the entire edge. I don't know if this flat has disappeared from the new units.

[Galaxybj]

Today I had a very nice conversation with Gayle Brock regarding the rear spoiler. The crew at BRE gathered together yesterday after the Tribute 240Z returned to their shop to discuss the issues I brought up with fitment and talked to the individual who installed the rear spoiler on the Tribute 240Z to see what issues he had encountered. It was discovered that the mounting studs on one side were moved inward (1/8" by my measure). Gayle said they will be sending me the previous version to replace this current version.

While I was talking with Gayle I happened to ask about the clear headlight covers that BRE sold back in the early 70's and if they may consider bringing them back. She said they actually had recently had that discussion and are considering it. Their concern is if there is enough interest in their clear covers. I had them on my 5/71 Z and really liked the looks (when I got her back the covers were not on her) Very clean looking compared to the ones available today with the rubber seal.

[psdenno]

I had a set of their headlight covers installed on my '71 in '72 and they held up for decades. Just needed to do a little grinding to fit into the headlight scoops.

Dennis

[NVZEE]

Any condensation problem with the headlight covers? I suppose that climate (i.e., Seattle vs Phoenix) and even headlight temperature (incandescent vs 100-watt halogen, etc) could play a roll in that as well.

[Galaxybj]

Never an issue with condensation as there wasn't an "air/water" tight seal. To install you had to file/sand (as psdenno mentioned above) down the edges to get the fit as close to the headlight bucket as possible. Tedious process to get the right fit, but well worth it. I ran 100W Hella halogen headlights.

Edited September 26, 2014 by Galaxybj

[psdenno]

As mentioned by Galaxybj, the fit was loose enough to let air blow in and let moisture escape. Never had a problem with condensation. In addition to looking good, they kept the snow out of the headlight nacelles in the winter when I lived in the Midwest.

Dennis