240Z hatch repair panel

[CarolinaTZ]

I have a '72 and am in the process of replacing some rusted metal. I have read of the possibilty of bonding the under-hatch (above tail lights) repair panel using one of the high-tec body adhesives. Has anyone done this? I thought about using this method along with spot welds on the braces coming off the rear panel above the tag. Seems like this would eliminate the possibility of rust after welding in hard to treat areas. Any thoughts? Does anyone have one of these panels made by Nissan they would like to sell? Thanks!

[grantf]

I spot welded mine on and used seam filler on the underside farely strait forword.

[psdenno]

I spot welded mine on and used seam filler on the underside farely strait forword.

Nice job on the fix! Did you use any special coating on the original metal under the panel you welded in place? Looks like that rust went fairly deep into the rear structure..

Dennis

[esmit208]

Yes it is a nice job. I too would be interested in purchasing a replacement panel. Anyone that can put us on to a source would be much appreciated. I plan to cut mine away and start fresh. Project 3/72 moves along slowly.

[Mike B]

I too would be interested in purchasing a replacement panel. Anyone that can put us on to a source would be much appreciated.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1C02/30-7291

-Mike

[doradox]

I got mine here for about $85 shipped. Of course the exchange rate was very favorable at the time.

https://rsp-secure.com/rarespares/default.asp?car_type=34A&model=DATSUN%20240Z%20260Z

[CoastGuardZ]

I need to do this same fix... so you actually put the new panel on top of the old rusted one? Why not cut out the old and install the new panel? I'm not a paint and body guy so take it easy on me, but that just seems hokey.

[esmit208]

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1C02/30-7291

-Mike

Thanks a bunch Mike:beer:

[Walter Moore]

I need to do this same fix... so you actually put the new panel on top of the old rusted one? Why not cut out the old and install the new panel? I'm not a paint and body guy so take it easy on me, but that just seems hokey.

Depends upon your skill level. Personally I have barely mastered the pop rivet and bondo approach sufficiently to get by. If you can weld, and weld very thin sheet metal which is an even higher level skill, then your approach to repairs will be different I suspect.

[CoastGuardZ]

Depends upon your skill level. Personally I have barely mastered the pop rivet and bondo approach sufficiently to get by. If you can weld, and weld very thin sheet metal which is an even higher level skill, then your approach to repairs will be different I suspect.

You're a far sight better than me... I will be taking it to a body shop

[CarolinaTZ]

Looks good grantf...does it seem like the seam sealer will keep the water out from under the panel (above the tail light panel)? That's the area that always rusts and after welding, it doesn't look like there's a way to seal it off well enough to prevent future rust.

CoastGuardZ, you do remove the old part first...I didn't mean to imply that you bond on top of the original part...it has to come out first. But, there's some good sized overlap areas when installing this part that would allow you to bond it in and not have to worry about untreated areas.

Thansk for the leads guys...MSA seems a little high on that part although it's supposed to be a quality piece. That's a really good price on the Aussie part. doradox, how is the quality on that part?

[doradox]

Looks good grantf...does it seem like the seam sealer will keep the water out from under the panel (above the tail light panel)? That's the area that always rusts and after welding, it doesn't look like there's a way to seal it off well enough to prevent future rust.

CoastGuardZ, you do remove the old part first...I didn't mean to imply that you bond on top of the original part...it has to come out first. But, there's some good sized overlap areas when installing this part that would allow you to bond it in and not have to worry about untreated areas.

Thansk for the leads guys...MSA seems a little high on that part although it's supposed to be a quality piece. That's a really good price on the Aussie part. doradox, how is the quality on that part?

The price on the Aussie part was good mainly because of the exchange rate at the time which was about 1.5 AUD to 1 USD. It's about 1.15 AUD to 1 USD right now. I and another member bought one each so the shipping was a little less per unit also. The quality is good but the hole that the latch protrudes through is a little smaller than the one on my 72 so it's not an exact replacement for that year. I can't vouch for any other year.

Steve