Greetings, Everyone!

After a 15 year hiatus of Z car ownership, I have returned to the fold.

A friend found this nice example for me. It's an original paint ( 110 paint code ) 1972 240 with 90K original miles. It's typical of a fully dealer-optioned Z car. It was fitted with A/C, the 240Z sticker on the sill, Amco towel bars front and rear, Amco floor mats and those infernal slotted mags at the dealer.

It's in pretty good shape. I fixed a fuel leak and then drove it home 1100 miles.

I had to remove the Amco bumper guards, and while I was there, I removed the overriders. Ahhhhh. MUCH better.

I've ordered some new dampers and brake parts to do a refresh on the suspension, and I'm considering something I'd like your opinion on.

There's a fellow who advertises pretty regularly on the Las Vegas craigslist ( and surrounding areas ) for a $375 rear disk brake conversion. It LOOKS pretty nice. Appears to use a tokiko single-pot caliper and it retains the e-brake functionality, even using the original brake cable.

Can anyone comment, good or bad, on this conversion? My goal is improved braking, not just a desire to have cross-drilled rotors showing through my wheels.

Here's a link to a current ad as of today: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/1868225888.html

If that link is dead ( likely within a week after this post ) then use google with these search terms: "datsun disk brake conversion site:craigslist.org" and you'll likely hit one.

Next item: My seats are shot. I was thinking of purchasing a new set of covers and seat foams from http://www.classicdatsun.com/ for $405.

Again, any comments good or bad, or alternatives?

And finally, this Z, like my former Z, has that pronounced 'CLUNK' in the rear end. I found the half-shafts to be loose and tightened all of the flange-bolts, and did the same for the drive-shaft. ( actually, the drive shaft flanges were tight ) The u-joints SEEMED okay, and the rear diff has had its front mount replaced. The play would seem to be coming from the diff itself, and the drive flanges for the half shafts seem to have the most play in the system. Also, the diff is bathed in gear oil, unlike the motor and gearbox which are dry as a bone.

Do the diffs wear out on these things? At 90K miles? The R200 is famously bullet-proof, so I would think this one would have similar characteristics, but I don't know. I humbly submit my question to the wisdom of the Z forum for guidance.

What's the flow chart for running down clunks in the rear end?

Do I replace with an R200 and be done with it?

Thanks everyone!

-jeffrey

so will you be selling the front Amco bumper guard? I am in the market for a nice one on my '73.

My clunk comes from the two bolts holding the diff to the mustache bar. Tighten those right up, and the flop should go away. (The studs slightly increase size right at the diff cover to fit firmly into the mustache bar itself.) When those nuts get loose I get a little wear on the studs themselves.

my clunk was solved by replacing the mount insulator assembly. it's a metal mount with a rubber bushing attached. over time the rubber deteriorates. if u have a black dragon catalog it's part # 62-625 (#26 illustration) not saying it will fix your clunk but u can try.

Edited July 30, 201014 yr by zhead240
spelling

or read up on the R/T mount. That works for me on my '71

I have a 72 240 as well and have tried most everything to remove the diff clunk. Mine does it when moving off in reverse as well as forward, which makes me think it's not the front diff mount that is the problem. I put in a diff and halfshafts from a 260, complete with new driveshaft, and the clunk persists. I have double checked all the mountings, and everything is tight. I have concluded after talking to others, that it is a problem with the 240 and 260 diffs. On rotating the driveshaft it is quite easy to initiate a decent clunk, even by hand. There is a lot of backlash in these diffs. :stupid:

Hey, Folks, thanks for the tips! Keep 'em coming!

Motorman, thank you for the interest in the Amco bar. I typically save all my bit-and-pieces I take off a car and save them so I don't become the DPO. Thanks for the tip about the R/T mount. I inquired about getting one of those. The lower, stock front diff mount has been replaced with a stock nissan unit fairly recently it would appear. (I can still see the new part sticker) I tried the nuts on the mustache bar and they seemed tight enough. I'll try those again by loosening and re-torquing.

Thanks, Guys!

-jeffrey

Welcome to the club, looks like a nice Z you've aquired!