My understanding has always been that the U.S. dealers and/or distributors (or more likely, their lawyers) were concerned about safety issues. The hand throttle -- cool as it is -- doesn't have an auto-return feature. It also has the potential for (variously) linkage snag, cable freeze, lever bind, etc. from poor maintenance or poor adjustment (remember the million-car recall a couple of years ago for 'floor carpet' issues? And the other issue -- same manufacturer -- for 'run-away' vehicles due to owner not understanding how to turn off a car fitted with a push-button starter?).

Is the throttle knob produced as a repro of the OE piece (i.e. mirror-image of the choke knob, and with engraved 'throttle-plate' graphic)? If so, I'm definitely interested. Anybody else?

Maybe Datsun 240z rubber grommets & parts would like to take a shot at this? Not a trivial task, though, because I don't know of any easy way to produce a mirror-image mold of the choke knob. Not to mention the need to cast in a mounting slot and a recessed set-screw hole. And then there's the graphics. A 3D printer could produce it easily, and maybe that's the way this is going to get done. It will depend on figuring out how to get a set of x-y-z coordinates off of choke knob. Anybody got access to a contact profilometer?

On the other hand, a good tool and diemaker could probably knock off a master in an evening. Volunteers?

Here is a pic of the knobs.

Finally warm enough to get back in the garage. Elec about 90% done. Finished the hatch area today.

What kind of garage heating are you using? (and what's your definition of 'warm enough to work'?)

I use a 220 elec heater with a fan. One of those 1' cubed orange box construction style. For the last two weeks it has been -15C during the day and -28C at night, now it is -10C at night and 0C during the day. My heater can keep up with these temps.

I use a 220 elec heater with a fan. One of those 1' cubed orange box construction style. For the last two weeks it has been -15C during the day and -28C at night, now it is -10C at night and 0C during the day. My heater can keep up with these temps.

Similar temps here (north west New Brunswick) and I've been using a similar heater for my 24'x24' garage which was built in 2002.

If you haven't already, consider making/installing an insulated partition to supplement your garage door even if it's insulated. I made one with R20 foam sandwiched with 1/4" plywood. Come spring I store it off the ground mounted on an exterior garage wall. While I can't remember what the materials cost, I'm sure it's paid for itself in energy savings, not to mention the comfort of 20C.

Cheers,

George

I use a 220 elec heater with a fan. One of those 1' cubed orange box construction style. For the last two weeks it has been -15C during the day and -28C at night, now it is -10C at night and 0C during the day. My heater can keep up with these temps.

I have a Reznor forced air natural gas up in the corner. I keeps the shop 5C all the time, then I turn it up to 12C when I'm in there - plenty warm for working and doesn't cost much to run. Now if I could just spend more time on my own cars....

The hatch and vinyl work looks AWESOME - so clean! Is that new vinyl, or the original stuff? I have new carpet but will try to re-use m vinyl. Are you going to keep those tires, or go with something with a newer edge?

Edited February 25, 201411 yr by e-tek

e-tek: It is the original vinyl, it has a few small nicks, but not bad overall. The carpet is the kit from MSA. Picked it up while on vacation when the dollar was at par. So I saved shipping/UPS charges which made it more cost effective. I am going to keep the tires for now, need to get it on the road for a while before upgrading them. Back to -30C at night, I am really getting tired of this winter. I see you guys had -40C with the windchiill.

Center console in and choke plate. Had to take the glove box back out to get at a non op clock. Clock is working again. Now I see that the Tach that was stuck at 4000 (which I took apart, lubed and freed the stuck needle) now goes to 8000 when ever the power is turned on. Looks like I am pulling it and replacing with another one. I am really regretting not pulling the dash and going through everything on the bench. I was worried about cracking it so I left it alone. Oh well, something to remember for the next one.

You would have had these same snags if you had refreshed all connections, I had the same issues with temp sensor, tach and turn signal switch. Murphy lives

Hi Dan

I'm curious about the chrome that had been replaced by rust on the ashtray. Do you have a method for restoring it?

Great job on your Z. After hearing about the problems in your dash, I'm going to pull mine and go through it. Got my L26 running but the only power I have to the dash is the map light & it's dim. Electrical is next. Mark in Portland