madkaw Posted August 16, 2010 Share #13 Posted August 16, 2010 What happened to checking the wires by the coil? You said it wouldn't start when you screwed around bundling the wires-I would think that you found your problem there. Did you check for bare wires?The electric fuel pump is probably not the issue-unless that's what you were running on, and your not. I have seen it happen many times where a bare hot wire gets hot and is close enough to metal it would ground out, you need to get on top of your car and look at the wiring with a microscope! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
segdoh Posted August 17, 2010 Author Share #14 Posted August 17, 2010 Steve,sorry I left that info out.Igot that wire prob.all squared away.I didnt mean to make it sound like the electric fuel pump was shorting out or part of the elec.problem.The reason I was checking out my fuel lines was because of my fuel smell.Thats when I found the fuel pump.I was reading that Datsun wa s using an electric fuel pump along with a mechanical one to stop a vapor lock problem.For some reason in my mind I am thinking that I may have a fuel pressure problem or a vapor lock problem.I can run my car balls out up to 110 120 mph.out in the country/rural with no problems.But in town stop and go traffic 35-45 mph.Its like it is loading up,popping, sputtering.Is this a fuel problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Moore Posted August 17, 2010 Share #15 Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) How hot was it when you had this problem? The early cars are known to have vapor lock issues, even when running, in hot weather, which is said to be the reason that Nissan added the electric pumps. You would not see the problem on the open road, because the higher airflow at speed keeps the engine bay cooler.Search for threads on vapor lock for more information.Edit: Also search for threads on fuel smell. That is a common problem as well. Edited August 17, 2010 by Walter Moore Forgot something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 17, 2010 Share #16 Posted August 17, 2010 I'm looking at the your pictures and trying to figure out the hose routing from your fuel pump-it looks different for some reason, but it's hard to tell in the pic. Are you running a FPR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
segdoh Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share #17 Posted August 19, 2010 No fpr.what should the presure be?It goes straight from the pump to the metal tube that is hooked to the valve cover.It feeds both carbs,then a u turn back towards the pump.Not into the pump, but past it,and down to a metal line along the frame.The one clear looking tube is coming from the radiator over flow.And yes,it has been crazy hot here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 19, 2010 Share #18 Posted August 19, 2010 about 3.5lbs. The picture just looked odd. Have you checked the battery voltage at idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travel'n Man Posted August 19, 2010 Share #19 Posted August 19, 2010 Your engine could be too cool - what thermo are you running? A 160 or 180 or none? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
segdoh Posted August 20, 2010 Author Share #20 Posted August 20, 2010 OK,so more to add to the list. Check thermo,and battery voltage at idle.Im not sure what that has to do with my problem,but you guys know more about this than me.I will log it in my memory bank/write it down....Thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 20, 2010 Share #21 Posted August 20, 2010 It's a matter of checking the basics. If your voltage regulator is not maintaing voltage, your spark might be weak at idle, causing a unclean burn. You have a hot ignition that needs good battery voltage. To cold of an engine will also create issues of a rich mixture. A lot of times the problems are caused by basic elements not being correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary in NJ Posted August 20, 2010 Share #22 Posted August 20, 2010 I agree that checking basics is the place to start, but running down electrical problems when the carbs haven't been fully explored is a bit of a reach.It is entirely possible that the electrical problem noted above is coincidental and not causal. But you wont know for sure until "the basics" are checked and confirmed.Start at the beginning, not the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 20, 2010 Share #23 Posted August 20, 2010 gary,I respectfully disagree. I think the carbs are one the last things to trouble shoot. All the basics should be covered before diving into the carbs. Why do I say that, because most other items are more straight foward to check then carbs. A simple voltage check eliminates many things. The carb function relies on so many engine functions that I have learned from past experiences, unless your sure, don't start with the carbs.By theway Gary, I was born and raised in Moorestown NJ, but don't miss it:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary in NJ Posted August 20, 2010 Share #24 Posted August 20, 2010 By theway Gary, I was born and raised in Moorestown NJ, but don't miss it:) I wouldn't miss Moorestown either I live in the NW part of the state where the roads are twisty and people are few-and-far in between. To beat this to death (something I enjoy), to me the basics are fuel, compression & spark - in that order. First I check if each is present, then I check the amount and timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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