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A weathestrip story - help needed


mikemerkury

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My personnal experience with various type of weathestrip :

1) First i bought the "rubber seal kit" from BDA assuming it was a good deal at 199$ :

- Door weatherstrip (LH/RH) gripping portion needed to be install with ton and ton of glue. Door slamming issue. Frequent adjustement

needed slipping out of the gutter/sill plate.

- Inner rear hatch seal also needed to be install with ton and ton of glue. Fit was disastrous to say the least. Hatch slamming issue.

- Generaly, i would qualify the door/hatch rubber of poor quality easily twisting out of place even with lots of glue.

- Glue provided does not provide enough adherence and if you go this route/kit usage of 3Mâ„¢ Super Weatherstrip Adhesive

Black formula would be recommended to ease frustration to an acceptable level.

2) Ended up replacing the BDA Door (LH/RH) and Hatch inner. weatherstrip with Kia Sportage (first generation 1993-2002) found at the local junk yard.

- Gripping portion is with individual aluminum clips inside to ensure a permanent grip to the gutter.

- No glue needed and very easy to install.

- No preform corner.

- Fit is far from being perfect on my 73. Did not pass the water leaking test on the driver/passerger side. Inner hatch did not pass the newspaper test (closing hatch on a piece of newspaper

and removing without tearing)

- I understand that not one Z are similar and also that the Kia weatherstrip thickness might i have suffer from being so longly expose to the element at the junkyard.

3) Thinking about going the McMaster-Carr way. Part number 1120A333, page 3438 of the catalog. This is for the Door weatherstrip (LH/RH). Did

some measurement on the Z a few minutes ago and A), B) and C) does make sense (see image - 3). Each door take about 11 1/2 feet and according to an old post

on hybridz this solution was also recommended by Pierre Z in Hawthorne (http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/19439-240z-replacement-weatherstrip-experiences-so-far/)

Questions/Feedback

- Did anyone use the McMaster-Carr door weatherstrip lately ? How would you rate it ?

- Would you consider the McMaster-Carr Edge-Grip Rubber Seal Bulb on Top (see image - 1) an alternative for the rear inner hatch ? Which size ?

- Does the rear inner hatch seal from Courtesy Parts (http://www.courtesyparts.com/tailgate-seal-1970-1978-240z-260z-280z-seater-p-568958.html?cPath=7724_7754&) contain individual aluminum clips inside to ensure a permanent grip to the gutter without glue ?

Hoping to end my weathestrip story on a good note....

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I don't have any experience with the MacMaster seals but I have a 1973Z with a new set of Kia strips on both doors and deck lid. I have no water leaks at all and no slamming needed. I did have to do a little massaging of the inner lip of the opening in the rear to everything to line up just right. Not too bad, just a little bending on the side where the strut attaches and around the hinges. I suspect I would have had to do this no matter whatever seal I used.

In other words, maybe your bad experience is due to the fact that you have used Kia seals. If the MacMaster thing does not work out you might look at a set of new ones. New ones might fit better.

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Hello, I just wanted to share how I finally resolved my weatherstrip / door slamming problem. I instaleld orginally the Precision Weatherstripping (that requires the separate Welting from MSA) and my doors were terrible to close. The rubber never softened up nor stayed compressed along the front fender area.

I called MSA and inquired about their Nissan OEM weatherstripping (the type that requires welting to also be added). They only had the passenger door so I ordered 2 sets and wanted to compare the rubber softness to the Precision ones. MSA's PN is: 76801E41 and Nissan's PN is 76801E-4100).

Here is the link to MSA's site for the Nissan OEM Passenger Door Weatherstripping: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/76801E41

When they came, immediately I noticed it was much softer and compressed nicely without much effort.

So anyway - how did I convert a Passenger Door weatherstrip to fit on a Drive Door? Well it was pretty simple but must measure the Long & Short lengths from the 90degree corner first. I cut the Long run at proper length to now make it the Shorter run. Then took the left over material and attached it to the Original Short leg. I noticed there was actually a seam at this length so this is how these must be made at the factory. Anyway I used Contact Cement and added it to both pieces prior to attaching allowing the cement set for 5mins. Once attached the Original Shorter run now becomes the Longer run for the Driver Side door. This converted the Passenger weatherstrip to a Driver weatherstrip for installation., it spliced superbly - looks like a factory seam.

Now both my doors close very nice without slamming and no air leaks - in fact I could pull the doors in closer to the body for a better fit.

Just wanted to share this .. hope it also helps.

Many thanks,

Edited by moritz55
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  • 1 month later...

For your information ended up buying door weatherstrip reproduction and Nissan Genuine rear deck Inner Weatherstrip from Motorsport (34-1074A,34-1075A,34-1140).

After little door adjustement, driver/passenger weatherstrip fits perfectly. Very easy to install and no glue needed. No more door slamming issue.

Tomorrow, will give a try at installing the nissan genuine rear deck inner weatherstrip. Does the plastic interior trim pieces need to be removed, so the lower rubber lip of the new seal can be positioned under the plastic interior trim ? Should i use glue ? Any other pointers ?

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For your information ended up buying door weatherstrip reproduction and Nissan Genuine rear deck Inner Weatherstrip from Motorsport (34-1074A,34-1075A,34-1140).

After little door adjustement, driver/passenger weatherstrip fits perfectly. Very easy to install and no glue needed. No more door slamming issue.

Tomorrow, will give a try at installing the nissan genuine rear deck inner weatherstrip. Does the plastic interior trim pieces need to be removed, so the lower rubber lip of the new seal can be positioned under the plastic interior trim ? Should i use glue ? Any other pointers ?

Keep us posted. I am interested in this as I have had similar issues with my seals.

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