Jump to content
Email logins are now active ×

IGNORED

Installed RT Mount & U-Joints


Oiluj

Recommended Posts

Today I installed my RT diff mount. I went the bump-stop and lower cross-member route. Cut-off 3/4" from the bump-stop worked great. No iterative cutting & fitting required.

Did have some initial difficulty getting the RT mount in-place, but a little "persuasion" with a small jack got it moved into position. Found that I had to install the bump-stop after getting the mount partially in-place, but not moved-up into the final position. Also found that lowering my exhaust a about 1-1/2 inches to get it past the exhaust pipe.

Replaced the u-joints in my driver's side half-shaft while the car was on jack stands. (Did the other side last weekend, but didn't have time to do both). Used my vise to drive the bearing caps 90% into the castings. Then used a socket and hammer to gently tap tem into final position before installing the retaining clips.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


What manufacturer's half shaft u-joints did you use and where did you get them?

I went with "Precision" brand u-joints from Napa Auto Parts. They have std and heavy duty versions. Spicer u-joints would have been better, but were substantially more expensive and would have had to be mail-ordered.

The Precision joints have a grease hole in the "cross", but come with a plug as well as the grease nipple. I hand-loaded the bearings and body w/ high-temp grease before installation as opposed to using the grease nipple. That way I "know" they are fully lubricated.

Precision u-joints have a lifetime warrantee from Napa, so it's convient if I have any issues down-the-road. Warranty covers replacement of the part. Probably a mute point though. I kept the reciept, but it's unlikely they will fail anytime soon.

Quality of the new u-joints looks pretty good, (machining & surface finish). We will see how long they last.

My existing u-joints were just starting to go, (making a small amount of noise), but no play could be detected "by-hand". Now instead of three distinct "thunks" when the clutch is engaged, all I get is what is probably the play in the differential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oiluj: Have you taken the car out on the road yet? I just installed all new driveshaft and halfshaft u-joints on my 1971 240Z that I bought from Black Bragon and have to replace all of them because they are no good. Black Dragon won't tell me who the manufacturer is, my mechanic threw out the boxes they came in and I do not remember the name of the manufacturer. I am getting pronounced vibration in 4th gear at 55MPH. I am going with Nissan replacement u-joints. I bought the drive shaft u-joints from Nissan but am still trying to find a source for the Nisan halfshaft u-joints which Nisan no longer sells. See my post on this in the Drivetrain section.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My car still had the original u-joints with about 75,000 miles on them, but I tossed them and they are gone. If I had kept them I could have given you some info on the Nissan parts.

I have driven the car and there is no unusual noise or vibration.

My understanding is that Spicer u-joints are the best aftermarket product and are used by guys who race their Z's. If you are concerned about quality, I'd consider using Spicer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.