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Undercoating


rscottm

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I know this is not answering you question, but given the choice, I prefer no undercoating. Allows you to see corrosion problems before they get bad. Undercoating can hide rust till it becomes a big problem.

My car has undercoating and I wish it didn't.

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Body Schutz by 3M, hands down. It takes a special applicator gun, but you can buy a cheap knock-off called a BUPA gun at the paint store or on-line. We used this on one of our projects as an undercoat and were extremely happy with the results. It's only available in black and not tintable, however.

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I personally have POR as my undercoating, but if I were to apply some, it would be the Body-Schutz.

As far as it "hiding" problems.... well, you should first address those issues before you undercoat.

A properly applied coat of undercoating is actually to the car's benefit and PROTECTION when you will be driving on gravel roads or anywhere where you can/will be kicking up debris onto the underside of the car. Think of it as mud-flaps for the bottom of your car.

Undercoating applied to a poorly painted, or rust-proofed underside is the reason people don't like it.

Just my 2¢

E

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I understand the concern of undercoating concealing developing rust beneath it. I think we have all at one time or other had the opportunity to scrape off old undercoating. Some of it adheres well and has protected well but some of the cheaper varieties are easily removed and reveal that moisture has gotten underneath, become trapped and allowed rust to develop. It is also a favorite method of hiding rust or shoddy work. I know, I would be wary of buying a used car with a fresh, heavy coat of undercoating.

For a weekend, summertime, non-daily driver, I would prefer no undercoating at all. POR would be a good choice and would also allow periodic inspections without rust being able to get under it.

Another option, I am using on my non-daily driver Z is a spray bedliner. I am planning on using it sparingly in certain areas, just because of my concerns of adhesion. Time will tell how well it works. I am doubtful that it will perform as well on a gravel road also.

I have a Shutz gun but am unfamiliar with the 3M product. Looking back, I have never had a bad thing to say about 3M products and should have bought shares in the company.:ermm:

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formally being in the auto paint prepper position in a "production" repair facility I have run into undercoating numerous times. Here is the conclusive answer. Just like the pretty outside paint, it's all about that time consuming preparation, preparation, preparation. So before you "hose it on" you need to "rough up", grind out, clean, and inspect every panel that you are planning to coat. Be extra thourough in areas that are suspect for rust. Inspect the welds and seams. apply "seam sealer" in the appropriate areas. Once you are confident that any and all rust and metal repairs have been made. Then clean it. Scrub it. clean it some more. no product will stick to dirt, grease or grime that is left behind. I do not reccomend a particular brand but like most things you get what you paid for and there is usually a brand that offers good quality for a fair price. And as far as the guy above reguarding rhino liner my expirence is that it tough as nails and will not come off. So go to a true "auto paint" store and they should have a good product (bed liner or undercoating)for a fair price. Again all said and done correctly, rust and corrosion will not come back and the undercoating will protect waaaay better than doing nothing.

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Any recommendations on undercoating - either spray cans of rubberized undercoating or more of a system like Lizardskin or QuietCar?

I have spent a ton of time getting ready to do the same thing to my 73. i was not totally satisfied with any product as each had short comings. then i found out about noxudol..this stuff is what to use...just check it out for yourself and i'm sure you will be convinced that this is the best undercoating available..and at a fair price

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  • 3 weeks later...

My car is in the process of being painted. The underside has recieved undercoat (colored to match the 918 paint). The front wheel wells have not received undercoating-- I am asking for trouble by just leaving these sections painted only?

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  • 3 months later...

I am finally getting back on this undercoating and am looking for advise on what to prime with. I see there are many different types available in spray cans - self-etching, sealer, high build, filler, rusty metal, sandable, weldable, etc.

I have removed the old undercoating and ground off the paint and primer with 60 grit. I was planning to use black RustOleum Rust Reformer that Autozone sells (similar I think to Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator) and then spray on the undercoating.

Any thoughts?

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You could go "old school" and use a product called cosmoline. It's a waxy, petroleum based product that was used extensively by the military in WWII and is still used for guns and tooling. It's translucent enough to see rust underneath, and I think it's soft enough to flow into pores and crevaces.

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